Enjoying Japanese Finger Food: Sushi and Sashimi

Although raw fish is certainly the focal point of some sushi — and all sashimi — it's not the whole story. Sushi can take the form of fingers of rice topped with raw or cooked fish, or even sweetened omelet, or it can be cone-shaped rolls of nori (a type of seaweed) filled with jewel-toned fish eggs and veggies. It can be cylindrical rolls filled with rice, nori, and avocado, either thin or wide. It can even take the form of a bowl of rice with fish and other flavorful ingredients scattered on top. There is huge variety!

Serving sashimi is an art form and can be as simple as a few slices of tuna on a plate, to a rainbow selection of fish with grated daikon radish, wasabi (a green Japanese horseradish), and dipping sauce on the side.


Fishing for the details
Sushi is not just raw fish, as you may have believed. The word actually refers to the "fingers" (finger shapes, that is) of vinegared rice that support choice morsels of raw fish, or sometimes other items such as cooked shrimp or a bit of rolled omelet. This kind of sushi is referred to as nigirizushi.

Following are descriptions of the different kinds of sushi:

Nigirizushi: Fingers of vinegared rice topped with raw fish or other items, such as cooked shrimp or sweet omelet.
Makizushi: Sushi rolls made with a makisu, a mat made from thin pieces of bamboo that facilitates the rolling process. They usually consist of a sheet of nori seaweed filled with sushi rice and some sort of filling in the center. You also can find inside-out rolls, which have the rice on the outside and the nori and fillings on the inside.
Temaki: These are also called "hand rolls" as they're made by simply stuffing sheets of nori with rice and fillings and rolling by hand into a cone shape. You eat these out of hand rather than with chopsticks.
Oshizushi: This sushi is a specialty of the city of Osaka, and you need a special mold to make it. You press sushi rice into a wooden (or sometimes metal) mold and then top it with fish or other toppings. The top of the mold is put into place and presses down on the whole shebang. When you remove the top, you have a large cake of sushi, which is then cut into bite-sized pieces.
If you have the mold, you can see how this is an easy way to make many pieces of sushi at once — great for a party. You can find the molds at some Asian grocery stores.
Inarizushi: This is a simple-to-make vegetarian option for sushi lovers. You purchase aburage, which are fried pouches of tofu, so much of the work is already done. You simply stuff the pouches with sushi rice and some seasonings. These are great for picnics and lunch boxes.
Chirashizushi: Literally translated as "scattered" sushi, which is exactly what it is. This is the easiest sushi to make: You take a bowl of sushi rice and "scatter," quite artfully, a selection of fish and vegetables. As with the oshizushi mentioned earlier in this list, this is a great party dish. You can make one big bowl and let guests serve themselves, or you can take a little more time to arrange individual bowls for a dinner party.
Dining etiquette
When you sit down to eat sushi in better restaurants, you're presented with a warm, wet washcloth with which to wipe your hands. Not only is this a gracious way to start, but if you're eating the sushi with your fingers, which is perfectly okay, it's sanitary as well.

Every place setting should have a small dipping dish (for soy sauce) and a pair of chopsticks. Every table should have a small bottle of soy sauce. Many restaurants make a house sauce by combining soy sauce, mirin, sake, and bonito flakes; but if you're serving sushi at home, you can just use soy sauce.

Here are some rules of etiquette to remember:

Pour some soy sauce or dipping sauce into your own dipping dish.
Pick up each piece of nigirizushi with chopsticks or your fingers and dip the topping in soy sauce in your little dish. If you dip the side with the rice, it will fall apart.
It's most proper to eat your nigirizushi in one bite — two at the most.
When eating sushi rolls, you can use chopsticks or your fingers. Hand rolls are always eaten out of hand.
Wasabi and paper-thin slices of pickled ginger are offered with your sushi and sashimi. Add a dab of wasabi (Watch out! This is hot stuff!) to your sushi and sashimi to taste, and eat pickled ginger between bites of sushi to cleanse the palate.
Sashimi is often presented with a mound of finely shredded daikon; eat it between pieces of fish to refresh your palate.
The pickled ginger and daikon cleanse the palate between bites so that your taste buds can more fully appreciate the next type of fish.
If you are presented with some sushi made from sweetened, rolled omelet, eat it last; it's kind of looked upon as a mini-dessert because it is sweet.
When it's time to take a break, or when you are finished, place your chopsticks horizontally in front of you, parallel to the edge of the table that's closest to you.
Speaking the language
Try using these words and phrases when talking about sushi and sashimi, whether in a restaurant or at home:

Omakasezushi: The chef's choice. When you say this at a sushi bar, it means that you're putting your order in the chef's capable hands. You'll get what is freshest and, quite possibly, most expensive.
Tekkamaki: Tuna roll.
Kappamaki: Cucumber roll.
Tekkappamaki: Selection of both tuna and cucumber rolls.
Futomaki: Thick rolled sushi, about 2 to 3 inches across.
Hosomaki: Thin rolled sushi, about 1 inch across.
Inarizushi: Fried tofu pockets filled with sushi rice and seasonings.
Kore o kudasai: "I'll have some of this, please."
Oaiso o onegai shimasu: "Check, please."
Arigatou: "Thank you

Exploring Chinese Herbs and Spices

Chinese cooking involves some exotic herbs and spices that are getting easier to find in your local supermarket. Excite your palate and try some of these herbs and spices the next time you cook a Chinese meal.

Unless otherwise indicated, store each of these spices in a jar (preferably glass) with a tightly fitting lid in a cool, dry place. They'll keep for several months.

Chinese five-spice powder
This light cocoa-colored powder originally contained five specific spices. Nowadays, it contains more, including cinnamon, star anise, fennel, clove, ginger, licorice, Sichuan peppercorn, and dried tangerine peel. It has an unmistakable cinnamon and anise flavor that's perfect with braised meats, roasts, barbecues, and red-cooked dishes. Stored properly, this will keep for a year.

Chinese hot mustard
You might already know this fiery, pungent, horseradish-like condiment. It's so piquant and distinctive that it makes a perfect crossover flavoring agent and condiment for many Western recipes.

Chinese hot mustards are available already prepared or in powdered form. Store opened containers of prepared mustard in the refrigerator. Powdered or prepared, it'll keep for several months.

Ginger
This pale golden, knobby, hand-shaped "root" smells great and has a spicy bite and natural sweetness. Slice, julienne, mince, or grate fresh ginger for dressings, sauces, and marinades. Include it in poultry, meat, seafood, and vegetable dishes.

Fresh ginger is hard, heavy, and free of wrinkles and mold. It's available year-round in the produce section. Young ginger is more delicate in flavor and texture, and is available in summer and fall. Store mature ginger in a cool, dry place for up to a couple weeks. Alternatively, peel and place it in a jar with rice wine sherry and refrigerate for up to several months.

Sichuan peppercorns
Black peppercorns are no substitute for these dried, reddish brown berries with a unique woodsy fragrance. To give red-cooked dishes and stir-fries a distinctive Chinese flavor, stick with Sichuan when it comes to peppercorns.

Toast a handful of them in a dry frying pan over low heat until they become fragrant and then add them to your recipe. You can work with either whole peppercorns or ones that are crushed to a fine or coarse powder.

Sichuan peppercorns are available in plastic bags. Some packages label them "wild" or "red" pepper; don't let the latter name confuse you — these are not the same as red chile peppers.


Star anise
These approximately 1-inch, star-shaped pods have points, each containing a shiny, mahogany-colored seed. It has a licorice flavor that complements meats and poultry in red-cooked and barbecued dishes.

Use it to make rich braising sauces and stews. Don't eat the whole spice; just let it infuse the sauce or braising liquid. Ground star anise goes into flavoring powders (like Chinese five-spice powder) and in dipping sauces.

You can find whole and ground star anise in plastic packages and small jars. Broken stars are unavoidable, given their delicate points. Eight broken points still equal one whole pod. Store whole and powdered star anise in separate jars

Uncovering the Main Types of Jewish Cuisine

Two major cultural groups make up the Jewish people — the Ashkenazic, or Central European, and the Sephardic, or Mediterranean. Differing regional backgrounds are their most distinguishing characteristics. Neither category is homogeneous. Each style is composed of numerous smaller communities, each of which has developed its own variations in their traditional dishes.

Unlike the regional cooking styles of such countries as France and Italy, the branches of Jewish cooking are very much a result of migration. Throughout their history, Jews have had to move from one place to another. Often, Jews of different backgrounds ended up in the same country and eventually adopted seasonings and recipes from each other.

Ashkenazic and American style
The Ashkenazic Jews come from Central and Eastern Europe, notably Poland, the European parts of Russia, Germany, and the surrounding countries. They and their cooking style are the most familiar to Americans for a simple reason: Ashkenazic Jews make up the majority of the Jewish population of the United States and Canada.

The word Ashkenazic comes from Ashkenaz, an old Hebrew word for Germany.


Seasonings
In their kitchens, Ashkenazic cooks prefer straightforward seasonings that emphasize the inherent tastes of foods rather than a large number of herbs and spices. This tendency may explain why so many of their specialties, from warming soups to roast chickens to potato pancakes to noodle casseroles, have become comfort foods.

Sweet and sour stews of meat and vegetables are another hallmark of Ashkenazic cooking. Perhaps the most famous example is tzimmes, a stew of sweet vegetables such as carrots and sweet potatoes, dried fruit such as prunes or apricots, and often beef. To create the sweet and sour effect, cooks use sugar, honey, or raisins tempered with vinegar or lemon juice. They employ this flavoring technique for soups and meatless dishes as well.

Dill, bay leaves, parsley, and chives are the herbs of choice. Black pepper and paprika — both mild and hot — are the preferred spices. The food is tasty and not usually spicy but not bland.

Deli delights
When Ashkenazic Jews arrived in North America, some started small eateries so that their friends and neighbors could enjoy the foods they craved from the "old country," or Europe. These eateries grew into the delicatessen-restaurants that are so loved today in the United States and Canada.

The food was mainly simple home cooking, such as the following:

Cheesecake: On Jewish tables, cheesecakes are one of the all-time favorite desserts. Jews from Poland, Russia, and Hungary did much to popularize their luscious cheesecakes across America.
Knishes: These pastry pillow turnovers are traditionally filled with meat, potato, or other vegetable fillings. People enjoy these turnovers most when they are warm and serve them as substantial snacks or as first courses at dinners.
Kugel: Ashkenazic Jews are immensely fond of egg noodles and use them in inventive ways. Perhaps the most well-known is the kugel, a delicious baked casserole combining the pasta with flavorful seasonings and eggs. You can make kugel savory with onions or other vegetables or sweet and fruity for dessert.
Lox: Lox is salmon cured in brine so that it acquires a deliciously distinctive, slightly salty flavor. Many feel that a thin slice of lox on a bagel spread with cream cheese is practically a sandwich made in heaven! In Jewish homes, lox is the favorite brunch food and is enjoyed at many other occasions as well, from parties to light meals at home.
Lox is not smoked. Today, however, many substitute smoked salmon for lox.
Sephardic style
Sephardic Jews originated in the lands around the Mediterranean area and in the Middle East. Their cuisine is exuberant with the sunny flavors of this area.

Sephardic cooking is not only delicious, but is healthful, too. It could be considered a kosher branch of the style of eating known among nutritionists as the Mediterranean diet.

The word Sephardic comes from Sepharad, the Hebrew word for Spain. Many of the Sephardic Jews descended from the Spanish Jews who were exiled from Spain in 1492. They migrated mostly to other Mediterranean countries.


Seasonings
With plenty of herbs and sometimes generous use of spices, Sephardic cooking is aromatic. Lemon, garlic, tomatoes, and olive oil are its favorite flavors. Olives are popular, too, as appetizers and to lend their pungent flavor to stews.

Cooks use herbs with a generous hand, especially Italian parsley and cilantro. Many love dill, thyme, and rosemary also.


Sephardic Jews from Morocco and other North African countries enjoy cumin, ginger, and saffron, while some from the Middle East pair cumin with turmeric. Many like chilies, too, and their cooking can be quite hot. Jewish cooks from the eastern end of the Mediterranean are so fond of cinnamon that they use it as a savory accent for meat dishes, as well as to perfume their sweets.

Mediterranean favorites
Vegetables figure prominently on the Sephardic menu. Cooks prepare them in numerous ways, notably as an impressive array of salads to begin feasts. They use peppers, eggplant, zucchini, artichokes, and beans this way. Delectable vegetables braised in savory tomato sauce and vegetables stuffed with fragrant meat and rice stuffings are other highlights of their holiday tables.

Braised meats with rice or couscous are favorite main courses. For special occasions, the rice may be embellished with dried fruit and nuts.


Pita, or pocket bread, is the best-known bread of Sephardic origin. If you have tried only the mass-marketed types, try to taste fresh pita from an Israeli or Middle Eastern bakery. As with pizza, which is made from a similar dough, there is a world of difference between a fresh-baked pita straight from the oven and a packaged one designed to last a long time.

Sephardic cooks often bake their pastries, both savory and sweet, from filo dough. Bourekas are a popular appetizer pastry and often have feta cheese, spinach, or potato fillings. Baklava, a favorite sweet, features the dough layered with a nut and sugar filling and moistened with syrup.

Israeli style
Israel was the original homeland of the Jewish people before their wanderings divided them into the Ashkenazic and Sephardic groups. In modern days, members of both communities have come together in the Jewish State.

From a culinary standpoint, the result is an active melting pot. With people from so many different countries living in close proximity in a small space, neighbors and friends actively exchange recipes and try each other's favorite flavors.

Falafel is the most famous specialty of Israel. Originally an eastern Mediterranean appetizer, it became Israel's favorite light meal. In Israel, falafel is as common as hamburgers are in the United States. People eat falafel in pita sandwiches at casual falafel restaurants as a quick pick-me-up and also enjoy making it at home.

In just about every Israeli home, a salad of finely diced tomatoes, cucumbers, and onions dressed with olive oil and lemon juice is a staple. It's called simply Israeli salad. Most people eat it at least once a day, as a first course or to accompany an entree from roast chicken to a simple omelet

Measuring Ingredients for Baking

You probably know someone who bakes a lot, and it seems like she just tosses this in and that in and presto, out come cookies or a pie or something delicious. It seems like magic, so you may wonder how important it is to be accurate in measuring. The answer is: very important. Proper measuring is critical to baking. Baking is a science, and when you mix together ingredients, you're creating chemistry, albeit edible chemistry, so being precise is important. There is balance between flour, leaveners, fats, and liquids.

Extra salt or baking soda can ruin otherwise perfect cookies. Too much flour makes muffins taste dry and flavorless. No beginning cook should be nonchalant about measuring. The success of your recipe depends on it.


As you begin to feel more comfortable with baking, you may feel inclined to experiment a bit, maybe add some chocolate chips to peanut butter cookies, or throw some nuts or dried cranberries into oatmeal cookies, or substitute pecans for walnuts. That's all well and fine, but give it time. You're never too good or experienced to measure.

Measuring equipment
Measuring spoons come in sets of four or six, ranging from 1/4 teaspoon to 1 tablespoon. (Be sure to use graded teaspoons and tablespoons — and not the spoons you use to eat with —for accuracy.) You can use the same measuring tools for both liquids and dry ingredients. For liquids, fill the spoon until it's full. For dry ingredients, pour or scoop into the spoon until it's full, leveling off the spoon with the straight edge of a spatula or knife.

Never measure over the bowl of ingredients you're using for the recipe. If you overpour or level extra into the bowl, your measurements will not be accurate.


Measuring cups are essential for every kitchen. You won't find many recipes that don't require measurements of some kind. Measuring cups come in two basic types:

Graded: Graded cups range in sizes from 1/4 cup to 1 cup and can range from 4 to 6 cups in a set. Use graded cups to measure dry ingredients and solid fats, such as shortening.
Glass: Glass cups are available in a wide range of sizes, the most common being 1 cup, 2 cups, and 4 cups. Use these cups for measuring liquids.
When measuring thick, sticky liquids such as honey, molasses, and corn syrup, spray the inside of the measuring glass with nonstick cooking spray or grease it a little with oil. The liquid will then be much easier to remove.


Measuring dry ingredients
To measure flour, sugar, breadcrumbs, and other dry ingredients (with the exception of brown sugar in many cases), spoon the ingredients lightly into the measuring cup. Do not shake the cup to make level! Take the straight edge of a knife (not the cutting edge) and level off the ingredient. Leveling it off gives you one level cup. If the recipe calls for a heaping cup, do not level off the cup. Instead, leave a small mounded top of ingredients.

Sometimes ingredients, such as brown sugar, shredded cheeses, coconut, or herbs, are called for as lightly or firmly packed. Why pack? Generally, these ingredients are bulkier and can form big air pockets if you use the traditional spoon-and-level method of measuring. If you apply light or slightly firm pressure to the ingredients, you eliminate some of the air pockets and get a more accurate measurement. Never push the ingredients in so much that you actually crush them or pack them in so tightly that you have difficulty getting them out the of cup measure. If you do so, you will overmeasure, adding too much of the ingredient. A good visual cue that you have lightly packed something is that after you pour it out of the measuring cup, it will lose the shape of the cup it was in. If it's firmly packed, it will slightly retain the shape of the measuring cup after it's dumped out into the bowl, but it will be easy to stir apart.

To measure chopped nuts, shredded cheese, fresh herbs, and coconut, spoon the ingredients into the measuring cup and pack down lightly.

Measuring fats and other solids
To measure shortening, spoon the ingredients into a cup and pack down firmly with a spoon or rubber spatula to eliminate any air holes. Bakers, these days, don't often have to measure fats because butter and margarine come in conveniently measured sticks. One stick equals 8 tablespoons or 1/2 cup. Two sticks equal 1 cup. You still have to measure solid shortening, but now they make shortening sticks, so even that task has been greatly simplified.

If you're measuring fats, an easy way to keep the cup clean (and save yourself time by not having to wash it) is to place a piece of plastic wrap in the measuring cup first. Then, after the shortening is measured, pull the ends of the plastic out of the cup. The measuring cup stays clean and you have perfectly measured shortening.


Measuring liquids
Always use a glass measuring cup for measuring liquids. For an accurate reading, always rest the cup on a level surface and read at eye level.

Sometimes the container in which you purchase an ingredient might be labeled in ounces when your recipe calls for cup or spoon measurements (or vice versa). Check out Table 1 for some common equivalencies.

Table 1: Measurement Equivalents

If a Recipe Calls for This Amount
You Also Can Measure It This Way

Dash
2 or 3 drops (liquid) or less than 1/8 teaspoon (dry)

1 tablespoon
3 teaspoons or 1/2 ounce

2 tablespoons
1 ounce

1/4 cup
4 tablespoons or 2 ounces

1/3 cup
5 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon

1/2 cup
8 tablespoons or 4 ounces

1 cup
16 tablespoons or 8 ounces

1 pint
2 cups or 16 ounces or 1 pound

1 quart
4 cups or 2 pints

1 gallon
4 quarts

1 pound
16 ounces

Vietnamese Lemongrass Rub for Grilled Lamb, Chicken, and Seafood

This recipe for Vietnamese Lemongrass Rub creates a wet rub — any seasoning mix that incorporates a little oil to form a paste. The lemongrass offers a nice summery flavor that pairs especially well with lamb. You can use this grilling rub with seafood or chicken, too.

Vietnamese Lemongrass Rub
Preparation time: 20 minutes

Cooking time: None.

Yield: 4 servings

3 fresh lemongrass stalks, root end trimmed and 1 or 2 outer leaves discarded from each stalk

2 shallots, chopped

3 garlic cloves, chopped

2 teaspoons freshly chopped and peeled ginger

Zest of 1 lemon

Juice of 1 lime

1-1/2 tablespoons sugar

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper

3 tablespoons water

2 tablespoons fish sauce (optional)

5 tablespoons peanut oil or vegetable oil

1. Thinly slice bottom 6 inches of the lemongrass, discarding the remainder.

2. Puree lemongrass, shallots, garlic, ginger, lemon zest, lime juice, sugar, salt, cayenne, water, and fish sauce in a food processor, scraping down the sides occasionally, until as smooth as possible, about 2 minutes.

3. To finish the rub, slowly drizzle the peanut oil or vegetable oil into the rub mixture while the food processor is on. Continue processing until oil is incorporated. Store in a glass container and refrigerate until ready for use.

Use the wet rub just like you would a marinade: Marinate in a glass or stainless steel bowl (or use a zippered plastic bag). Cover with plastic wrap, and let it sit on the meat in the refrigerator to absorb the flavors. Turn the meat once in a while to distribute flavor evenly. Blot off the wet rub before you cook.

You can find lemongrass in the produce sections of most grocery stores. It's a perennial grass that has an extremely tough texture but a very fresh and light lemon flavor that is used a lot in Thai and Vietnamese cooking. Look for firm stalks that are pale yellow or white at the bottom and green elsewhere. Leave browned stalks of lemongrass in the store. If you're having trouble finding lemongrass, try an Asian market.

An important factor is the size of the meat you're marinating:


Small pieces of meat, like shrimp or boneless chicken breasts, grab flavors in about an hour.
Give steaks and chops at least three hours and as many as six hours.
Veggies do well with a couple hours' marinating time.
Whole chickens, pork loins, rack of lamb, or other big pieces of meat need at least 5 hours and as many as 14 hours in the marinade.
If you're marinating something as big as a pork shoulder or brisket, allow about a day.

Marinating is an art that requires trial and error. But remember that when you use strong flavors, the meat generally need less time to marinate

Filet Mignon with Irish Whiskey Sauce

This decadent recipe for Filet Mignon with Irish Whiskey Sauce is wonderful for a special dinner. The filet generally is considered the most tender cut of beef, but it lacks a little flavor when compared with other cuts, such as sirloin or ribeye steaks. That's why it's a great idea to sauce up your filet.

Filet Mignon with Irish Whiskey Sauce

Yield: 4 servings

4 small filet mignons (4 ounce each)

2 tablespoons butter

1 clove garlic, diced

1 teaspoon finely diced shallots

1-1/2 cups mushrooms, chopped

1 teaspoon honey

1/2 teaspoon wholegrain mustard

1 ounce Jameson Irish Whiskey

3/4 cup beef stock

3/4 cup heavy (double) cream

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

1. Melt the butter in a skillet over medium-high heat.

2. Add the filets and sauté until they're done to your preference. Transfer the filets from the pan to a heated platter, and cover them loosely with foil to keep warm.

3. To the skillet, add the garlic, shallots, and mushrooms, and sauté over medium heat until soft.

4. Add honey and wholegrain mustard to the pan and stir.

5. Add the whiskey, and turn up the heat so that the sauce boils for 1 minute as the alcohol evaporates.

6. Turn down the heat and stir in the beef stock. Boil gently until the amount of sauce in the pan is reduced by half.

7. Stir in the cream, and continuing stirring until the sauce thickens.

8. Give the sauce a quick taste, and add salt and pepper as needed.

9. To serve, slice the filets, put them on plates, and pour the sauce over the top

Chinese Honey Garlic Chicken

This simple chicken recipe for a Chinese stir-fry calls for 12 cloves of garlic. Honey's smoothness mellows the intense garlic flavor, and dried chiles add a kick of heat. The artful balance of sweet, savory, and spicy in this chicken dish characterizes classic Chinese cooking. Pairing honey with garlic may not seem like an obvious combination, but after trying this honey of a sauce, you'll be sweet on it yourself.

Honey Garlic Chicken

Preparation time: 15 minutes

Cooking time: 8 minutes

Yield: 4 servings

2 tablespoons oyster-flavored sauce

1 tablespoon Chinese rice wine

1 teaspoon cornstarch

1/8 teaspoon Chinese five-spice powder

1 pound boneless, skinless chicken, cut into 1-inch cubes

1/3 cup chicken broth

1 tablespoon dark soy sauce

2 tablespoons honey

1-1/2 tablespoons cooking oil

12 cloves garlic, crushed

3 whole dried red chiles

1 cup cubed water chestnuts or jícama (1/2-inch pieces)

1. To make the marinade, combine the oyster-flavored sauce, rice wine, cornstarch, and five-spice powder in a bowl. Add the chicken and stir to coat. Let stand for 10 minutes.

2. To make the sauce, combine the chicken broth, soy sauce, and honey in a bowl.

3. Place a wok over high heat until hot. Add the oil, swirling to coat the sides. Add the garlic; cook, stirring, until golden brown, about 2 minutes. (Be careful not to let the garlic burn!) Add the chiles and cook until fragrant, about 10 seconds. Add the chicken and stir-fry until done, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the water chestnuts and the sauce; bring to a boil until the sauce reduces slightly and the chicken is fully glazed, about 2 minutes.

If the thought of peeling 12 cloves of garlic drives you out of your own skin, just remember that a good smash with the flat of your knife's blade makes quick work of slipping off those papery peels

Chinese Pan-Grilled Salmon Fillet with Black Bean Sauce

Try this recipe for Chinese Pan-Grilled Salmon Fillet, and you'll create a fish dish full of lush flavor. Its marinade is redolent with Asian seasonings like ginger, green onion, and pungent black bean sauce. The slight crispness and caramelization of the pan-grilled salmon accentuate those lingering marinade flavors, too. Serve the grilled salmon with rice and stir-fried vegetables.

Chinese Pan-Grilled Salmon Fillet with Black Bean Sauce

Preparation time: 8 minutes

Cooking time: 15 minutes

Yield: 4 servings

3 tablespoons chicken broth

2 tablespoons black bean garlic sauce

1 tablespoon minced ginger

1 tablespoon Chinese rice wine

1 tablespoon sugar

2 teaspoons sesame oil

4 green onions, sliced

4 pieces (about 4 ounces each) salmon fillets, 3⁄4 inch thick

2 tablespoons cooking oil

1. Make the marinade: Combine the chicken broth, black bean garlic sauce, ginger, rice wine, sugar, sesame oil, and green onions in a bowl. Add the salmon fillets; turn to coat. Let stand for 10 minutes.

2. Lift the salmon fillets from the marinade and drain, reserving the marinade in a small pan. Place a nonstick grill pan over high heat until hot. Add the oil, swirling to coat the pan. Add the salmon fillets to the pan and cook to sear, about 4 minutes on each side.

3. While the salmon is cooking, simmer the reserved marinade until slightly reduced, about 3 minutes.

To serve, place the salmon fillets on a platter and pour the sauce over the fish.

Instead of pan-grilling, you can cook the fillets in a pre-heated broiler for 4 minutes per side. You'll savor the same irresistible crispy-charred texture that you get with pan grilling

Hot and Sweet Spice Rub

Rubs are usually a dry combination of herbs and spices, although sometimes a little oil is added to moisten the mixture. You simply massage rubs onto the surface of the food and end up with a wonderful crispness to the crust. Rubs are fast becoming the darlings of the grilling cook because, unlike marinades, they can be applied just before the food is grilled. However, if you have the time, let the food absorb the spice mixture in the refrigerator for several hours or overnight. Small tender pieces of fish or shellfish will benefit from about 30 minutes of standing time. A whole, spice-rubbed turkey should be plastic-wrapped to hold the rub tightly against its skin and then refrigerated overnight.

Rubs that are completely dry, without any oil or liquid ingredient, can be stored indefinitely in airtight containers in a cool, dry place. The amount of rub used to cover the surface of a piece of meat is entirely a matter of taste, but our rule calls for about 1 tablespoon for every pound of food.

To help the rub cling to the food's surface, apply it to food that is either completely dry or coated with a little oil. When seasoning poultry, spread the rub evenly over the surface and also under the skin as much as possible, being careful not to tear it.



Rub mixtures often call for crushing whole spices. You can best accomplish this task with a mortar and pestle; but if you don't have this kitchen tool, place the spices in a plastic bag and pound them with a rolling pin or a meat mallet until finely crushed.

This rub gives an interesting sweet and spicy flavor to all kinds of meat.

Preparation time: 5 minutes

Yield: 2 tablespoons

Ingredients:


2 teaspoons chili powder


1 teaspoon paprika


1 teaspoon brown sugar, firmly packed


1/2 teaspoon flour


1/2 teaspoon garlic salt


1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon


1/4 teaspoon ground allspice


Pinch of pepper


Kosher or table salt (optional)

Combine all ingredients and use as a rub for 2 to 2-1/2 pounds of beef, poultry, or pork. Coat the food lightly with oil before applying. Sprinkle grilled food lightly with additional kosher or table salt before serving (if desired).

Substituting Ingredients

Say you're making a vinaigrette dressing for a salad and suddenly realize that you're out of vinegar. But you do have lemons, which are an acceptable substitute. How much lemon do you use? Or you may not have whole milk for a gratin dish, but you do have skim milk. Is skim milk okay? Situations like these are what the following remedies are all about.

Some ingredients are almost always interchangeable: For example, you can substitute vegetable or olive oil in most cases for butter when sautéing or pan frying; lemon juice for vinegar in salad dressings and marinades; almonds for walnuts in baked breads and muffins; vegetable stock for beef or chicken stock in soups, stews, or sauces; and light cream for half-and-half.

But sometimes there is no acceptable substitution for an ingredient. Other times, the substitution is very exact and specific. This is most often the case for baked goods, where you need to follow a formula to produce a cake, soufflé, pastry, or bread with the perfect height, density, and texture.

Most of the following substitutions are for emergency situations only — when you have run out of an essential ingredient and need a very specific replacement.

For thickening soups, stews, and sauces:


1 tablespoon cornstarch or potato flour = 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour


1 tablespoon arrowroot = 2 1/2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

For flour:


l cup minus 2 tablespoons sifted all-purpose flour = l cup sifted cake flour


l cup plus 2 tablespoons sifted cake flour = l cup sifted all-purpose flour


l cup sifted self-rising flour = l cup sifted all-purpose flour plus 1 1/4 teaspoons baking powder and a pinch of salt

For leavening agents in baked goods:


1/4 teaspoon baking soda plus 1/3 teaspoon cream of tartar = l teaspoon double-acting baking powder


1/4 teaspoon baking soda plus 1/2 cup buttermilk or yogurt = l teaspoon double-acting baking powder in liquid mixtures only; reduce liquid in recipe by 1/2 cup

For dairy products:


l cup whole milk = 1/2 cup unsweetened evaporated milk plus 1/2 cup water


or l cup skim milk plus 2 teaspoons melted butter


or l cup water plus 1/3 cup powdered milk


or l cup soy milk


or l cup buttermilk plus 1/2 teaspoon baking soda


1/4 cup whole milk plus 1/3 cup melted butter = l cup heavy cream (but not for making whipped cream)


l cup skim milk =1 cup water plus 1/4 cup nonfat powdered milk


or 1/2 cup evaporated skim milk plus 1/3 cup water


l cup sour milk = l cup buttermilk or plain yogurt/li>


or l cup minus 1 tablespoon milk, plus 1 tablespoon lemon juice


or white vinegar after standing 5 to 10 minutes


l cup sour cream = l cup plain yogurt

For eggs:


2 egg yolks = l egg for thickening sauces and custards


4 extra-large eggs = 5 large eggs or 6 small eggs

For sweetening:


l cup sugar = l cup molasses (or honey) plus 1/2 teaspoon baking soda


l cup brown sugar = l cup white sugar plus 1 1/2 tablespoons molasses

Miscellaneous substitutions:


l cup broth or stock = l bouillon cube dissolved in l cup boiling water


1 square (1 ounce) unsweetened chocolate = 3 tablespoons cocoa plus 1 tablespoon butter, margarine, or vegetable shortening


1 square (1 ounce) semisweet chocolate = 3 tablespoons cocoa plus 1 tablespoon butter, margarine, or vegetable shortening plus 2 tablespoons sugar


1 2- to 3-inch piece of vanilla bean = 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Baking 101: Flour and Sugar

No matter what you decide to bake, the dynamic duo of your baking pantry consists of flour and sugar. Each of these essentials comes in a variety of forms, and knowing which to use and how to substitute for them is essential to baking success.

Flour
Flour is the primary ingredient for most cakes, cookies, pastries, and breads. Although it is one of the most basic baking ingredients, it also can be the most confusing, because of the wide variety available on grocery store shelves. Some flours are perfect for bread baking but disastrous for piecrusts or tender pastries. What makes a flour good for one recipe and bad for another? The amount of protein it contains. The more protein a flour has, the more gluten it will produce when it's kneaded. And the more gluten you have, the less tender your baked good will be.

Gluten is the protein that forms weblike structures present in wheat and other flours. When the flour is moistened and the bread is kneaded, or when doughs and batters are mixed together, gluten forms and adds an elastic and cohesive nature to the food. This elasticity allows the dough to expand and trap the carbon dioxide, produced by the leavening, which makes the dough rise and stretch. Gluten makes it all possible!


Several different kinds of flour are available for baking; all-purpose, cake, bread, self-rising, and whole wheat flour are just a few. Become acquainted with three basic types of flour: all-purpose flour, cake flour, and bread flour.

All-purpose flour is a blend of hard and soft wheat flours. The presence of more and tougher gluten in the hard wheat results in a rather elastic product. This produces the texture you want for cakes and cookies.
Bleached and unbleached all-purpose flours can be used interchangeably, but unbleached flour has a higher nutritional value. Southern flours, such as White Lily, are made with a softer wheat, which means that they have qualities similar to cake flour. Southern flour is great for tender biscuits and piecrusts.
Cake flour is made with soft wheat, producing less gluten when mixed, so your cake will be more delicate, with a slightly crumbly texture. When purchasing cake flour, don't buy self-rising cake flour unless the recipe specifically calls for it. If you do buy it by mistake, omit the baking powder or baking soda and salt from the recipe.
You can easily substitute cake flour for all-purpose flour, or vice versa:
• If your recipe calls for cake flour and you have only all-purpose flour on hand, you can substitute 1 cup minus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour for 1 cup of cake flour.

• If you need all-purpose flour and have only cake flour on hand, substitute 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons of cake flour for 1 cup of all-purpose flour. The texture will be different, but if you have no other choice, it's okay.

• If you have instant flour on hand, such as Wondra, combine 2 tablespoons in the cup measure, then add enough all-purpose flour to make 1 cup (which would be about 3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons). That will also give you a flour similar to cake flour.

Bread flour has a higher gluten-forming protein content, making the dough nice and elastic. This makes it ideal for bread-making.
Don't store any of your flours in the paper sacks you buy them in. Instead, transfer them into airtight canisters and store them in a cool, dry place to make sure your flour won't absorb any odors or off-flavors. Label the containers to ensure that you can tell the difference between the different varieties (they tend to look the same out of their bags). Flour can last up to six months if stored properly in the pantry and indefinitely if stored in the freezer. If you bought the flour from a natural food store, place it in the freezer for a few days to make sure nothing will hatch.


If you use flour slowly, you can store your flour in the freezer. Double-bag the flour in sealable freezer bags and be sure to label it. Flour stored in the freezer can last for several years.

Sugar
Sugar, another basic in baking, gives tenderness and sweetness to doughs and batters. Sugar also causes browning because it caramelizes (turns brown) when heated. Sugar also is a food source for yeast, making it rise.

In baking, you need to have three different types of sugar on hand: granulated sugar, confectioners' sugar, and brown sugar (light or dark).

Granulated sugar is standard white sugar, made from either sugar cane or sugar beets, and is the most popular and readily available sweetener in baking. Superfine sugar is a form of granulated sugar that dissolves easily in liquid. You can make your own superfine sugar: Place 1 cup of granulated sugar in the blender, cover, and process for 1 minute. Let it sit for about 1 minute longer to let the "smoke" settle. This produces 1 cup of superfine sugar. Sometimes superfine sugar is used in frostings and certain cakes. It dissolves quickly, so it doesn't need much cooking time.
Confectioners' (powdered) sugar has been refined to a powder and contains a small amount of cornstarch to prevent lumping. Confectioners' sugar dissolves instantly in liquid and has a smoothness that makes it a popular choice for frostings, icings, and whipped toppings. It's also perfect for dusting cake tops and brownies. If your confectioners' sugar becomes lumpy, you can sift it.
Brown sugar, both light and dark, is a mixture of granulated sugar and molasses. Brown sugar has a deeper flavor than granulated sugar. The color of brown sugar depends on the amount of molasses mixed in; dark brown sugar has more. Light brown sugar is the most common type used in baking, but the more assertively flavored dark brown sugar is also used. Recipes specify which brown sugar to use when it makes a difference; otherwise, you can use whichever you have on hand.
• When measuring brown sugar for recipes, be sure to pack it into the measuring cup for accurate measuring.

• When exposed to air for an extended amount of time, brown sugar has a tendency to harden. If this happens to your sugar, there's a quick fix: Place the hardened brown sugar in a heatproof bowl, and place the bowl in a baking pan containing about an inch of water. Tightly cover the entire baking pan with aluminum foil and place it in a 200-degree Fahrenheit oven for 20 minutes or until softened. Use the softened brown sugar immediately, because it re-hardens when it cools. You can also use your microwave to soften brown sugar. Place the hardened sugar in a microwavable dish. Add a wedge of apple. Cover and microwave on high for 30 to 45 seconds. Let stand for about 30 seconds, then use normally.

Store all your sugars in airtight containers in a cool, dry place