5/24/2008

Cook Up Carrots, Jamaican Style

Spicy and slightly sweet, Jamaican jerk seasonings bring carrots to life in this recipe. A pressure cooker speeds up the time by 10 minutes. If you are a vegetarian or vegan or want to try something new and healthy, add diced spicy tofu before serving and heat. A bright green vegetable and pasta or rice rounds out the meal. For nonvegetarians, chicken breast or a white fish like flounder goes well.

Spicy Island Carrots

Preparation/Cooking time: 20 minutes

Yield: 4 servings

1 pound baby carrots, sliced or unsliced, or regular carrots, sliced

2 tablespoons brown sugar

1 teaspoon hot pepper sauce

1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon ground cumin

2 cloves garlic, minced

1/2 teaspoon chili powder

1. In a medium nonstick saucepan, add the carrots and cover with water. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes, or until the carrots are tender but still firm. Drain the carrots and transfer to a bowl.

2. Dry the saucepan and coat with nonstick spray. Add the brown sugar, hot pepper sauce, lemon juice, cumin, garlic, and chili powder.

3. Cook, stirring, for 2 to 3 minutes, or until the sugar bubbles and the spices are fragrant. Add the carrots. Toss or stir to coat the carrots with the sauce. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

You can add lots of vegetables to this dish, but keep them small. Try diced celery, peas, chopped parsley, or chives. You can even add diced cooked poultry, ham, or beef if you want to use it as an entree with meat.

5/23/2008

Easy Beef Soup

Economical and filling, this tasty beef soup is one of the easiest recipes to make. Serve it with some crusty bread and a salad for a satisfying meal.

Spanky's Beef Soup with Tomatoes and Potatoes

Yield: 6 to 8 servings

Preparation time: 15 minutes

Cooking time: 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 hours

Freezes well

One 14-ounce can whole tomatoes with juice, broken into pieces with the back of a spoon

4 cups beef broth or water

1 pound beef chuck, shank, or bottom round, cut into 1-inch cubes

1 medium onion, quartered and thinly sliced

2 medium potatoes, about 12 ounces, peeled and diced

2 celery stalks, sliced

1 carrot, sliced

2 plump cloves garlic, peeled and coarsely chopped

1/2 bay leaf

1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves, about 1 sprig, or 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme

Salt to taste

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

In a large pot over medium heat, combine the tomatoes, broth, beef, onion, potatoes, celery, carrot, garlic, bay leaf, and thyme.

Reduce the heat to medium-low. Simmer, partially covered, until the meat and vegetables are tender, about 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 hours. Skim off any foam that forms during the cooking process.

Remove the bay leaf. Season with salt and pepper, and stir in the parsley.

Per Serving: Calories 192.9; Protein 14.2g; Carbohydrates 12.3g; Dietary fiber 1.8g; Total fat 9.4g; Saturated fat 3.7g; Cholesterol 38.7mg; Sodium 689.4mg.

5/19/2008

Bartending Basics: Creating Non-Alcoholic Drinks

A good number of your guests may choose not to drink alcohol, but this decision doesn't mean that they're stuck with boring soft drinks. Any of the following recipes are sure to impress, especially when served in traditional bar glasses.

Cranberry Collins
1/2 cup Ocean Spray Cranberry Juice Cocktail
1/2 Tbsp. Lime Juice
1 cup Club Soda, chilled
Ice Cubes
Lime Slices
Mix Cranberry Juice Cocktail and Lime Juice. Stir in Club Soda. Add Ice Cubes and Lime Slices.

Chocolate Banana Colada Shake
1/3 cup Coco Lopez Cream of Coconut
1/2 cup Milk
1 Tbsp. Chocolate Syrup
1-1/2 cups Chocolate or Vanilla Ice Cream
1/2 cup Sliced Banana
Mix all ingredients in a blender until smooth. Serve immediately.

Coco Lopez Shake
2-1/2 oz. Coco Lopez Cream of Coconut
1 scoop Vanilla Ice Cream
1 cup Ice
Mix ingredients in a blender until smooth.

Dust Cutter
3/4 oz. Rose's Lime Juice
6 oz. Schweppes Tonic Water
Combine over ice in a tall glass.

Fruit Bowl
1 oz. Orange Juice
1 oz. Pineapple Juice
1 oz. Grape Juice
1 oz. Grapefruit Juice
Shake with ice. Serve in a tall glass.

Grapefruit Cooler
8 oz. Grapefruit Juice
3 dashes Angostura Bitters
Pour Grapefruit Juice into a tall glass filled with ice. Add Bitters and stir.

Kona Coast
1 oz. Rose's Lime Juice
1/4 oz. Rose's Grenadine
5 oz. Mott's Apple Juice
2 oz. Schweppes Ginger Ale
Stir together and serve over ice in a tall glass.

New Orleans Day
2 oz. Coco Lopez Cream of Coconut
1 oz. Butterscotch Topping
1 oz. Half & Half
1 cup Ice
Mix in a blender until smooth.

Nada Colada
1 oz. Coco Lopez Cream of Coconut
2 oz. Pineapple Juice
1 cup Ice
Mix in a blender until smooth.

Orange Smoothie
2-1/2 oz. Coco Lopez Cream of Coconut
3 oz. Orange Juice
1 scoop Vanilla Ice Cream
1 cup Ice
Nutmeg
Mix first four ingredients in a blender until smooth. Sprinkle with Nutmeg.

Pina Colada Shake
1/2 cup Unsweetened Pineapple Juice
1/3 cup Coco Lopez Cream of Coconut
1-1/2 cups Vanilla Ice Cream
Mix in a blender until smooth. Serve immediately.

Red Racket
1/2 cup Ocean Spray Cranberry Juice Cocktail, chilled
1/2 cup Ocean Spray Grapefruit Juice, chilled
10 Ice Cubes
In a blender, combine Grapefruit Juice and Ice Cubes. Blend on high speed till frothy. Pour into a tall glass.

Ruby Cooler
1 cup Ocean Spray Cranapple Drink
1 tsp. Instant Tea
Lemon Wedges
Mix Cranberry Juice and Tea. Pour over ice into two tall glasses with Lemon Wedge garnishes.

Shirley Temple
1 oz. Rose's Lime Juice
1 oz. Rose's Grenadine
6 oz. Schweppes Ginger Ale
Pour ingredients over ice in a tall glass. Garnish with a Cherry.

Virgin Mary
4 oz. Tomato Juice
dash Worcestershire Sauce
dash Salt and Pepper
dash Tabasco Sauce
In a glass filled with ice, add Tomato Juice. Add a dash or two of Worcestershire Sauce, Tabasco, Salt, and Pepper. Garnish with a Celery Stalk.

Try a Trio of Stews Made the Slow-Cooker Way

There's nothing like a good, hot, home-cooked meal on a cold winter night. When properly prepared, a well-made stew is rich in flavor and texture, its ingredients bound together in a glossy sauce. Try one of these three satisfying stews, which you make in a slow cooker. (As with any stew, the leftovers taste even better the next day!)

Old-Fashioned Beef Stew
If you make only one dish in a slow cooker, let it be a good old-fashioned American stew full of fork-tender cubes of meat and chunks of fresh vegetables held together in a rich, flavorful gravy.

Preparation time: 30 minutes

Cooking time: Low 8 to 10 hours

Yield: 6 servings

Salt and pepper

3 pounds of your favorite cut of beef for stew, like chuck, cut into 1-1/2 inch cubes

3 tablespoons olive or canola oil

1 large onion, cut in half and sliced thin

3 cups beef broth

3 carrots, peeled and sliced into 1/4-inch rounds

3 large potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes

1 bay leaf

1/2 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

1 cup canned tomato sauce

1 teaspoon dried thyme

2 cups frozen peas

1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley

1. Lightly spray a 6-quart slow cooker with vegetable oil cooking spray.

2. Salt and pepper the beef. Heat the olive oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Brown the meat in batches. Remove to a large plate and continue browning the remaining meat. Add the onion and cook until soft. Remove the onion from the pan. Pour 1 cup of the beef broth into the pan, bring to a simmer, and scrape off any browned particles. Remove from heat and set aside.

3. Layer the carrots, potatoes, and cooked onions in the slow cooker. Top with the browned beef, bay leaf, and black peppercorns. In a large mixing bowl, combine the liquid from the skillet, the remaining 2 cups broth, the tomato sauce, and thyme. Pour over the meat and vegetables.

4. Cover and cook on low for 8 to 10 hours, or until the beef and vegetables are fork-tender.

5. Stir in the peas 15 to 20 minutes before serving and cook on high. Add salt to taste. Stir in the parsley before serving.

Per serving: Calories 604 (From Fat 210); Fat 23g (Saturated 6.5g); Cholesterol 111mg; Sodium 902mg; Carbohydrate 36g (Dietary Fiber 7g); Protein 60g.

Chicken Cacciatore
Cacciatore refers to hearty, stewlike dishes usually prepared with onions, tomatoes, mushrooms, wine, and peppers, ingredients that an Italian hunter might have in his pack. Cacciatore, in fact, is Italian for "hunter's style."

Chicken is an exciting addition to this popular Italian-American one-pot meal that is great served over cooked white rice. Make this dish with bone-in chicken. Slow simmering in the slow cooker brings out maximum flavor.

Preparation time: 25 minutes

Cooking time: Low 8 to 9 hours

Yield: 4 servings

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 chicken (3 to 3-1/2 pounds), cut into serving pieces

1 large onion, coarsely chopped

2 cloves garlic, sliced very thin

1/2 cup dry white wine

1 small pickled cherry or jalapeño pepper, seeded and coarsely chopped (optional)

10-ounce package white mushrooms, washed and sliced thin

2 cups canned crushed tomatoes

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

1 tablespoon minced parsley

1. Lightly spray a 6-quart slow cooker with vegetable oil cooking spray.

2. Heat the olive oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Brown the chicken, onion, and garlic. Place the browned chicken in the slow cooker. Add the wine to the skillet, bring to a simmer, and scrape off any browned particles. Pour over the chicken in the slow cooker.

3. Add the cherry pepper, mushrooms, wine, tomatoes, salt, and pepper to the slow cooker.

4. Cover and cook on low for 8 to 9 hours, or until the chicken is tender. Sprinkle with parsley before serving.

To reduce the fat content, remove and discard the chicken skin before browning.

Per serving: Calories 504 (From Fat 261); Fat 29g (Saturated 6g); Cholesterol 113mg; Sodium 1192mg; Carbohydrate 13g (Dietary Fiber 3g); Protein 40g.

Moroccan Vegetable Stew with Couscous
Some of the most exciting Mediterranean cooking is found in the southern Mediterranean basin of northern Africa. In the savory, exotic cooking of Morocco, fragrant stews and light, fluffy couscous are standard fare.

Preparation time: 25 minutes

Cooking time: Low 8 to 9 hours

Yield: 6 servings

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 leeks, trimmed and washed well, white and light green parts only, sliced into thin rounds (See Figure 1.)

1-1/2 teaspoons ground cumin

1 teaspoon paprika

1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 can (28 ounces) plum tomatoes

1 can (14-1/2 ounces) chicken broth, or 1-3/4 cups homemade

3 medium carrots, cut into 1/2-inch pieces

3 small zucchini, cut into 1/2-inch pieces

2 large potatoes, peeled and cut into 3/4-inch cubes

2 stalks celery, cut into 1/2-inch pieces

1 can (19 ounces) chickpeas, drained

1 teaspoon salt

Pinch freshly ground black pepper

1 package (10 ounces) frozen lima beans

1 package (10 ounces) couscous

1. Lightly spray a 4- to 6-quart slow cooker with vegetable oil cooking spray.

2. Heat the olive oil in a medium nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the leeks and sauté over low heat for 3 to 4 minutes, or until soft. Add the cumin, paprika, and cinnamon and sauté for an additional minute. Place the sautéed leeks in the slow cooker.

3. Drain the tomatoes, reserving the liquid. Cut up the tomatoes. Mix the tomatoes, reserved liquid, chicken broth, carrots, zucchini, potatoes, celery, chickpeas, salt, and pepper in the slow cooker.

4. Cover and cook on low for 8 to 9 hours, or until the vegetables are tender.

5. Before serving, add the lima beans and cook on high for 15 minutes.

6. Serve the stew with cooked couscous, prepared according to package directions.

Per serving: Calories 449 (From Fat 55); Fat 6g (Saturated 1g); Cholesterol 0mg; Sodium 1135mg; Carbohydrate 82g (Dietary Fiber 11g); Protein 17g.




Figure 1: Leeks are very sandy — keep rinsing!

Moroccan Chicken in a Pressure Cooker

Morocco is in North Africa, but this recipe reveals its Mediterranean ties: Onion, garlic, olives, lemon, and parsley pack flavor into this easy-to-make chicken dish. Unlike other pressure-cooker recipes, you don't have to brown the chicken! Just heat the olive oil and add the remaining ingredients. The resulting flavor and aroma is amazing. If you want to cut some calories, you can even remove the chicken skin.

Moroccan Chicken

Preparation time: 10 minutes

Cooking time: 15 minutes under pressure

Pressure level: High

Yield: 4 servings

4 tablespoons olive oil

1 large onion, sliced

1 clove garlic, thinly sliced

2 tablespoons minced flat-leaf parsley

1 tablespoon minced cilantro

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

4 threads saffron (optional)

One 3- to 4-pound chicken, quartered

1 cup chicken broth

1 large lemon, thinly sliced

8 large green Sicilian olives

1 package (10 ounces) couscous

1. Heat the olive oil in a pressure cooker over medium-high heat. Add the onion, garlic, 1 tablespoon of the parsley, cilantro, salt, pepper, and, if desired, the saffron. Stir well. Add the chicken. Stir to coat with the onion mixture. Pour the broth over the chicken; do not stir. Place the lemon slices on top of the chicken.

2. Cover and bring to high pressure over high heat. Lower the heat to stabilize the pressure. Cook for 15 minutes.

3. Remove from the heat. Let the pressure drop using a quick-release method.

4. Unlock and remove the cover.

5. Remove the chicken with a slotted spoon to a platter. Cover to keep warm.

6. Reduce the cooking liquid over high heat until the sauce is thick. Add the olives and cook until warmed through. Pour the sauce over the chicken. Sprinkle with the remaining 1 tablespoon parsley.

7. Serve with cooked couscous, prepared according to package directions.

Indian Butter Chicken in a Pressure Cooker

This pressure cooker version of Indian Butter Chicken is simple to prepare, large enough to feed a crowd, and is big on flavor and aroma. White rice is a perfect complement to this creamy, buttery dish!

Indian Butter Chicken

Preparation time: 15 minutes

Cooking time: 8 minutes under pressure

Pressure level: High

Yield: 6 servings

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

Salt and pepper

1-1/2 pounds boneless chicken breast cut into 3/4-inch cubes

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 large onion, minced

1 tablespoon minced or grated gingerroot

1 small jalapeño pepper, seeded and minced

2 teaspoons garam masala spice blend*

1 can (6 ounces) tomato paste

2 cups chicken broth

1/2 cup heavy cream

2 tablespoons minced cilantro

3 tablespoons butter, cut into small pieces

1 lime, cut into 6 pieces

1. Generously salt and pepper the chicken. Heat the vegetable oil in a pressure cooker over high heat. Add the onion, gingerroot, and jalapeño. Cook for 3 minutes. Add the chicken and cook until no longer pink on the outside (chicken will still be raw on the inside). Add the tomato paste and chicken broth. Stir well.

2. Cover and bring to high pressure over high heat. Lower the heat to stabilize the pressure. Cook for 8 minutes.

3. Remove from the heat. Let the pressure drop using a quick-release method.

4. Unlock and remove the cover.

5. Over low heat, stir in the heavy cream. Add the cilantro and butter. Stir until the butter melts. Serve with white rice or Yellow Split Pea and Basmati Pilaf.

6. Squeeze juice from the lime wedges over the servings.

*Garam masala spice blend is readily available at most Indian and specialty food stores. You can make your own by combining 3/4 teaspoon ground cumin, 1/2 teaspoon paprika, 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon, 1/8 teaspoon ground cayenne, 1/8 teaspoon ground cloves, and 1 bay leaf, crumbled, in a small bowl. Store in an airtight jar.

Arroz con Pollo (Rice with Chicken) in a Pressure Cooker

Arroz con pollo (chicken and rice) is a Spanish classic enjoyed with many variations in most Spanish-speaking countries. This dish traditionally is made in a shallow paella pan, but many Spanish cooks prefer to use their convenient and quick pressure cooker.

Arroz con Pollo

Preparation time: 15 minutes

Cooking time: 7 minutes under pressure

Pressure setting: High

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

Salt and pepper

One 3-pound chicken, skin removed, cut into eighths

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 chorizo sausage, thinly sliced (optional)

1/2 cup white wine

1 small onion, chopped

2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced

1 red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and diced

1 large ripe tomato, peeled, or 2 canned plum tomatoes, seeded and coarsely chopped

1 cup uncooked long-grain white rice

1/2 cup frozen peas

3 cups chicken stock or broth

1 teaspoon salt

1. Generously salt and pepper the chicken pieces.

2. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a pressure cooker over medium-high heat. Brown the chicken in batches. Set aside on a large plate. Add the chorizo, if desired, and cook for 1 minute. Return the browned chicken to the pressure cooker. Add the wine and cook for 2 minutes. Remove to a plate with any juices and set aside.

3. Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil in the pressure cooker. Add the onion, garlic, red bell pepper, and tomato. Cook until the onion is soft. Add the rice and cook for 1 minute. Add the peas, stock, salt, chicken, and chorizo, with any accumulated juices. Stir well.

4. Cover and bring to high pressure over high heat. Lower the heat to stabilize the pressure. Cook for 7 minutes.

5. Remove from the heat. Let the pressure drop using a quick-release method.

6. Unlock and remove the cover.

7. Fluff the rice and serve.

Tamales, a Mexican Feast-Day Treat


Tamale-making, like tamale-eating, is an activity meant to be shared. In Mexico, tamales have been a fiesta food since the Indians first offered them to the gods. These labor-intensive, stuffed, and steamed packages are traditionally prepared by groups, in a sort of preparty party. The holiday they are most closely associated with in Mexico is All Saints' Day, while in America, tamales are a Christmas tradition.

Wrapping a tamale
Before you can unwrap and enjoy the delicious filling of a tamale, you first need to create the tidy cornhusk packages. Just follow these steps (and have a look at Figure 1):

1. Soak the dried cornhusks in hot water for 2 hours or overnight.

2. Drain the cornhusks on paper towels. Cut out 9-inch squares of aluminum foil. You'll need one for each tamale.

3. To wrap the tamales, spread 1 or 2 husks lengthwise on the counter with the narrow end pointing away from you. Spread about 2-1/2 tablespoons of filling down the center, leaving about 2 inches bare at the top of the husk.

4. Fold over the sides and then the ends to enclose the filling. Place the folded tamale on a square of foil and fold over the foil to enclose the package. (You can also close the tamale with a strip of cornhusk; see the recipe for Green Corn Tamales for instructions.) Repeat with the remaining filling and additional cornhusks.




Figure 1: Wrapping a tamale.
Banana leaves also make excellent wrappers for tamales. To use, hold the leaves in your hands, and run the leaves directly over a stovetop gas or electric burner on low heat or place in a dry skillet for a few seconds. This process softens the leaves, makes them fragrant, and brightens the green color. Cut them into 9-inch squares, trimming out the tough center stem. Fill, as with tamales made from cornhusks, and wrap the stuffed banana leaf in foil to enclose.


Steaming the tamales
Small batches of tamales can fit into a vegetable steamer basket, but for larger quantities, you need a steamer, which is a large pot with a perforated portion on top for the tamales.

If you don't have a steamer, you can improvise by balancing a rack or colander on top of one or two empty cans or inverted coffee cups that are set in a large pasta or soup pot. Make sure that the water doesn't touch the bottom of the rack.


Always keep an eye on the pot while the tamales are steaming so that the water doesn't get too low or evaporate entirely. And always line the steamer tray with extra husks to cushion the cooking process.

Celebrating the corn harvest
Mastering tamale making is really just a matter of getting organized and setting aside the time, preferably with a group of friends, to dig in and cook. Try your hand at tamale-making with this recipe for Green Corn Tamales. The corn harvest is celebrated all over Latin America with different versions of these simple packets of sweet, fresh corn wrapped in corn husks. They're a good choice for the beginning tamale maker because they don't contain masa. These tamales are also a great choice for a party because everybody loves them. The flavors are simple and sweet.

The green in Green Corn Tamales means that the corn is fresh rather than dried. It doesn't refer to the color of the corn, although fresh husks are green.

Green Corn Tamales

Special tool: Steamer or pot fitted with a rack

Preparation time:15 minutes (does not include time to soften the corn husks)

Cooking time: 1 hour and 15 minutes

Yield:10 to 12 tamales, or 6 servings
3 tablespoons butter
1/2 cup hominy grits
3 cups canned corn, undrained (two 12-ounce cans)
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
Pinch of sugar, if necessary
1/2 cup milk
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 8-ounce package dried corn husks, softened (see "Wrapping a tamale" earlier in this article)

Garnishes: Fresh salsa and sour cream

1. Melt the butter in a large skillet over moderate heat. Add the grits and cook for about 4 minutes, until golden. Add the corn and its juices, the salt, pepper, the sugar if the corn isn't sweet, and the milk, and simmer until the mixture is thick as oatmeal, about 7 minutes. Set aside to cool until touchable. Then stir in the baking powder and reserve in the refrigerator.

2. Wrap the tamales in corn husks according to the instructions in "Wrapping a tamale" earlier in this article. You can skip the step of wrapping the package in foil. Instead, make ties for the tamales by cutting a few of the moistened husks into 6 by 1/4-inch strips. Use the strips to tie the "package" closed with a double knot.

3. In a steamer or a pot fitted with a rack, make a bed for the tamales by laying the remaining corn husks on the bottom of the rack. Layer the tamales upright and steam over low heat for 1 hour. Remove from the steamer and let rest 10 minutes. Serve hot with the garnishes in bowls at the table.

For sweetened fresh corn tamales, add 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon, 1/4 teaspoon cloves, 1/4 teaspoon nutmeg, and 1/2 cup raisins to the skillet when you add the corn.

For a savory touch and some color, stir roasted and diced red or green bell peppers into the corn.


Celebrate your own corn harvest by substituting 10 ears of fresh corn, with the kernels scraped off the cob and uncooked, in the Green Corn Tamales. Add about 1/2 cup cream. Save the green husks for wrapping, and then you'll realize how these tamales got their name.

Salmon Marinated in Ginger and Cilantro

The following appetizer recipe is great for those days when you have a million other things to do before the party starts. Just don't read the recipe and assume we left out the most important step.

But it's raw, you say. Actually no, it isn't.

The acid in the marinade — which comes from the lime and vinegar — actually "cooks" the fish. Just be sure not to leave the salmon in the marinade too long. (Also, note that this marinade does not have the same effect on dense cuts of meat or poultry.) This dish calls for marinating for 4 to 5 hours, so you can put everything together in the early afternoon and have it for dinner.

Tools: Chef's knife, grater, large non-reactive bowl (glass, plastic, or ceramic, but not metal)

Preparation time: About 25 minutes

Marinating time: 4 to 5 hours

Yield: 6 to 8 appetizer servings

Ingredients:


2 pounds skinless salmon fillets (have your butcher remove the skin and bones)


1/2 cup fresh lime juice


1 large onion, thinly sliced


3 tablespoons white wine vinegar


3 tablespoons olive oil


2 tablespoons chopped cilantro


1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger


1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes


Salt and black pepper to taste


Lettuce for garnish

1. Using a pair of tweezers or your fingers, remove any small bones (called pin bones) in the salmon fillets.

2. Slice salmon thinly (1/4 inch or less) widthwise, leaving strips about 2 inches long. Place the strips in a large bowl.

3. Add the onion, lime juice, vinegar, oil, cilantro, ginger, red pepper flakes, salt, and pepper. Stir gently and cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate for 4 to 5 hours.

Taste for seasoning. (You may need more salt; if so, blend it in thoroughly.)

4. Line small serving plates with lettuce of your choice and place a serving of salmon over the lettuce. Serve immediately.

In some cases, a recipe gives you a choice between a dried or a fresh herb. However, substitutions don't work with a few ingredients. You cannot substitute dried cilantro for fresh, or powdered ginger for fresh ginger root. The fresh ingredient tastes entirely different from the dried one. Dried parsley is another herb that has its limitations. Always use fresh, chopped parsley when sprinkling it on a dish as a garnish.

Cozy Up with Chicken and Corn Soup

Hale and hardy, Chicken and Corn Soup is a traditional American soup that comes from the farm kitchens of the Pennsylvania Dutch. Serve up this comforting homemade soup to your family after a day of outdoor activity on a cold day.

Chicken and Corn Soup

Yield: 6 to 8 servings

Level: Easy

Preparation time: 10 minutes

Cooking time: 25 minutes

5-1/2 cups chicken broth

1/2 pound boneless chicken breasts, cut into bite-size pieces, or 1 cup cooked, cubed chicken

1-1/4 cups fresh corn kernels, or one 10-ounce package frozen corn kernels

2 ounces fine egg noodles, about 1-1/4 cups

Salt to taste, about 1/2 to 3/4 teaspoon

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 to 2 hard-boiled eggs, chopped

1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley

In a large pot over medium heat, combine the broth, chicken, and corn. Cover partially and simmer or until the chicken is cooked, about 15 minutes.

Add the noodles and cook until the noodles are tender, about 8 to 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

Remove from the heat. Add the hard-boiled eggs and parsley.

Note: Hard-boiled eggs don't freeze well, so if you want to make a batch of this soup and freeze any leftovers, add the chopped, hard-boiled eggs to individual serving bowls, not to the pot. Then leftovers can be frozen without the eggs.

Per Serving: Calories 124.8; Protein 9.8g; Carbohydrates 11.5g; Dietary fiber 1.4g; Total fat 4.7g; Saturated fat 1.1g; Cholesterol 52.5mg; Sodium 855mg.

5/18/2008

Knowing How to Bake Cheesecakes

Who can resist the appeal of a rich, creamy, satin-smooth cheesecake? Because a cheesecake is one luxury that is well within reach, easy to make, and freezes well, it is worth preparing for any occasion.

For a cheesecake to taste smooth and creamy, the batter must be smooth and creamy at all times. The best way to achieve this is to have all ingredients at room temperature before you start baking. Using a countertop mixer with a paddle attachment, beat the cream cheese until it's smooth and soft before adding the other ingredients. If you use a handheld mixer, use it on a low speed so you don't incorporate too much air into the batter, which can cause your cheesecake to crack.

Another popular method is to dump all the ingredients into a blender or food processor and give it a whir for a minute or so; then just pour and bake. This method can incorporate a bit too much air, so if you try it, remove the blender from the motor base and thunk it on the countertop a few times to encourage the air bubbles to rise to the surface and escape.

Whichever method you choose for mixing the batter, stop several times and scrape the sides and the bottom of the container to be sure your batter is lump-free and that no ingredients are stuck to the bottom or sides.


Coping with cracks
Cracks in a cheesecake, whether they happen during baking or cooling, can be caused by several different factors: extreme temperature changes, an oven temperature that's too high, too much air in the batter, baking for too long a time, or being placed in a drafty place to cool. Sometimes cracks just happen, despite your best efforts. But worry not — the taste of the cake won't be affected. If you're serving the cheesecake to guests, and appearance is important, here are a few tips to help disguise those cracks:

Top the cheesecake with sliced fruit. Any fresh fruit will do, but f you use bananas or peaches, remember to toss them in a bit of lemon juice to prevent them from browning before serving.
Spread the top with a thin layer of sour cream. This ingredient adds to the richness of the cheesecake and conceals any imperfections.
Drizzle melted chocolate on top. Dip a fork in melted chocolate and drizzle a pattern on top of the cheesecake. The chocolate gives the cheesecake a new look. (When hasn't chocolate made everything a little bit better?)
Baking a great-looking cheesecake
A cheesecake is baked in a springform pan. It's a good idea to place the springform on a baking sheet with a lip on all four sides. A springform pan can sometimes leak, despite your best attempt to make sure it's tightly fastened. Placing the pan on a baking sheet will prevent a leaky springform from making a mess in your oven. It's also an easy and safer way to take the cheesecake in and out of the oven, preventing any surprise openings of the springform. If you don't have a baking sheet with a lip, you can wrap the bottom of the springform pan in aluminum foil to seal off any potential leaky cracks.

To tell if your cheesecake is done, observe the top surface carefully. For most cheesecakes, the edges of the cake puff up slightly and may turn faintly golden (a golden brown cheesecake is undesirable). The top should also be dull, not shiny, and when you tap the sides, they should move, but not have the jiggle of liquid. The center should be softer than the edges. The cake will rise slightly during baking, but when it cools, it will settle and solidify. If any cracks appear, they will get smaller as the cake cools and sinks down. You can also carefully run a butter knife around the edge of the cheesecake when it comes out of the oven. Then, as the cake shrinks as it cools, it won't stick to the side of the pan.

You can cool your cheesecake by removing it from the oven, or you can just turn off the oven and crack the oven door. Let the cheesecake cool to room temperature before chilling it in the refrigerator for at least 3 to 4 hours, or preferably overnight, before serving.

Slicing the cheesecake

Slicing a cheesecake can be messy. The cake has a tendency to cling to the knife, so making neat slices can be quite a challenge. One solution is to run the knife under hot water after each slice is made. This keeps the knife clean, and the warm knife slices neatly through each piece. Of course, if you're cutting the cheesecake at the table, this method won't work. Instead, use two knives: one to cut the cheesecake and the other to scrape the knife clean after each slice.

A great trick for cutting a cheesecake is to use dental floss or heavy thread. Cut a piece of floss the diameter of the cake, plus enough to wrap around your fingers. Simply pull the thread taut between your hands and press it down all the way through the cake. Release the thread in one hand and pull it out with the other. Repeat, cutting the cake like the spokes of a wheel. It makes a great topic of conversation for your guests.

Homemade Pie Dough

When one thinks of the old-fashioned American farmhouse pies, we usually envision one of those Norman Rockwell, golden, dome-shaped delights. This lovely, puffed, golden crust is achieved by blending the right amount of butter and vegetable shortening (you can use lard rather than shortening, but it's harder to find). The following recipe uses all-vegetable shortening, such as Crisco. You may want to experiment by substituting some butter for the shortening and see the difference. Some cooks prefer a blend of shortening and butter 70 to 30 percent or even 50-50 — butter adds flavor to the crust.

To make a really great pie crust, you need to understand what this blend of simple ingredients is all about. Pie doughs have different densities and different elasticities. Making pie dough may sound daunting, but the good news is that you can tackle this topic one dough at a time and enjoy some terrific homemade pies along the way.

American-style pie dough is nothing more than flour, fat (butter or lard), water, and salt — some cooks add an egg, but it isn't necessary. The main difference between American pie doughs is the type and amount of fat in them. When making dough, you cut butter or lard into little pieces and partially mix it with flour — you want to have tiny nuggets of butter or lard throughout the dough. These nuggets melt while baking and give the crust its wonderful flaky quality.



Tools: Electric mixer (optional), plastic wrap, 9-inch pie plate, rolling pin

Preparation time: 10 minutes (plus 2 hours refrigeration)

Baking time: None

Yield: Dough for 1 pie in a 9-inch pie plate

Ingredients:


1 1/4 cups (10 ounces) shortening


2 cups (8 ounces) cake flour


2 cups (8 ounces) flour


1 teaspoon salt


1 cup (8 ounces) ice water


1/2-inch pat of butter, for greasing the pie dish

1. With a knife, cut the shortening into nickel-size pieces and place them in a large bowl. Add the flour and mix only enough to combine, or coat, the shortening nuggets with flour.

2. Add the salt and, while continuing to mix, drizzle in the ice water — blend just until the dough comes together or starts to look like a thick paste.

3. Remove dough from the bowl and place it on a flat surface that is dusted with flour. With your hands, pat down the dough into a rough rectangle about 1 inch thick. Cover in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 2 hours. (The shortening needs to chill and solidify, which makes the dough easier to roll out and work with.)

When a recipe calls for ice water, make sure that you measure only the water, without the ice cubes, or your measurements will be off.



Rolling out the dough and laying it in the pie pan
1. Using your fingers, spread the butter back and forth over the pie plate until well covered.

2. Remove the dough from the refrigerator and place it on a lightly floured flat surface. Cut the dough in half and place half into the refrigerator. Using a rolling pin, roll out half of the dough into a circle that's a little bigger than the circumference of the pie plate — that is, roughly an 11-inch circle for a 9-inch pie plate. Dust the dough and the counter frequently to prevent sticking — but use very little flour each time.

3. To lift the dough, place a rolling pin close to an edge of the pie plate. Lift about 3 inches of the edge of the dough up onto the rolling pin. Slowly roll the pin towards you while lifting the dough.

4. To lay the dough over a buttered pie plate, gently place the rolling pin over one edge of the plate and unroll the dough over the entire plate. Then lift the edges of the dough so that gravity lowers it into the bottom of the plate. With your fingers, press the dough into the corners of the plate. The dough should cover the sides, leaving about an inch or two of overlap on the edge.

5. After adding the filling, remove the other half of the dough from the refrigerator, roll it thin, and cover the pie. Squeeze the edges of the dough together and crimp to form a fluted edge.

A blend of delicate cake flour and all-purpose flour works best for pie dough because it blends better with the shortening. Cake flour is a low-gluten flour that is excellent for many types of baking because it's exceptionally light.

Peanut Butter and Chocolate Cheesecake Bites

This very rich and very creamy dessert is perfect for a crowd event. Cheesecake itself symbolizes holiday fun, but this recipe is great year-round. Because they're bite size, they're easy to serve — a big plus!

Peanut Butter and Chocolate Cheesecake Bites

Preparation time: 40 minutes

Cooking time: 25 to 30 minutes

Chill time: 1 to 24 hours

Yield: 24 servings

1-1/2 cups finely crushed chocolate wafer cookies

1/4 cup butter, melted

2/3 cup, 2 tablespoons sugar, divided

24 chocolate kisses

4 8-ounce packages (32 ounces) cream cheese, softened

4 large eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla

1 cup chunky peanut butter

2/3 cup semisweet chocolate chips

2 teaspoons shortening

1. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F. Line 24 2-1/2-inch muffin cups (in pans) with foil liners.

2. In a small bowl, combine the crushed wafers, butter, and 2 tablespoons of the sugar.

3. Divide the mixture evenly among the 24 lined cups. Press it into the bottom of the cups, creating the crusts.

4. In each cup, place a chocolate kiss with the point facing up.

5. In a medium bowl, beat the cream cheese and remaining 2/3 cup of sugar until smooth.

6. Beat in the eggs and vanilla, just until blended.

7. Beat in the peanut butter.

8. Gently spoon about 1/4 cup of the cream cheese mixture over the kiss in each cup. The cup should be full.

9. Bake for 25 minutes or until the filling is set. Remove the pans from the oven and cool them on a wire rack for 30 minutes.

10. Melt the chocolate chips and shortening in a microwave on high power until smooth.

11. Remove the cheesecakes from the foil liners and place them on a cookie sheet. Drizzle the melted chocolate over the cheesecakes.

12. Cover the cookie sheet tightly with foil or plastic wrap and refrigerate it for 1 to 24 hours.

Whenever you cook any kind of cheesecake, always use a water bath. A water bath is simply a pan of water that you place on the rack underneath your cheesecake. (The cheesecake doesn't actually sit in this water bath.) The water bath creates humidity in the oven and helps prevent the cheesecake from cracking on top. When you're cooking with a water bath, you may need to slightly extend the cooking time due to the added moisture.

Berry Good Lemonade

Lemonade and summer fun go hand in hand. The addition of blackberry puree gives this old favorite a new twist. Enjoy this beverage, which is rich in vitamin C, after a leisurely walk on a warm summer evening with family or friends.

Blackberry Lemonade

Tools: Medium saucepan or pot, blender or food processor, strainer, large pitcher

Preparation time: 30 minutes

Cooking time: 10 minutes

Yield: 10 servings

1-pound package of frozen blackberries

8 teaspoons plus 1-1/2 cups granulated sugar

1/3 cup plus 3 quarts water

2 cups freshly squeezed lemon juice

1. Place blackberries, 8 teaspoons of the granulated sugar, and 1/3 cup of the water in a medium saucepan or pot, place over medium heat, and let come to a boil. Immediately reduce heat to low and simmer, stirring often, for about 10 minutes.

2. Remove from heat and let cool to room temperature.

3. Pour blackberry mixture into a blender or food processor and puree for about 1 minute.

4. Pour through a strainer to remove seeds and pulp. Pour into large pitcher.

5. Add to the pitcher the remaining 1-1/2 cups of granulated sugar, the lemon juice, and the remaining 3 cups of water. Mix. Pour over ice and enjoy!

Depending on how you like your lemonade to taste, you might want to add more lemon juice for a more tart flavor or more sugar for a sweeter flavor.

Jewish Cuisine: Sweet Foods on Rosh Hashanah

The Jewish New Year (Rosh Hashanah) menu is replete with sweet dishes. Fruit, sweet vegetables, and honey appear even in some main dishes and give the holiday meals their unique character. Wrap up a meal with this delicious Orange Hazelnut Honey Cake.

To ensure mellow meals and prevent a bitter future, some people avoid sour foods like vinegar and lemon juice. Others tone down peppery dishes, using fewer chiles than usual or omitting them.


Some say the Israelites adopted the idea of celebrating the new year with something sweet from the Persians. In ancient Persia, it was customary to eat sweet foods for the new year. Legend relates that one of the biblical prophets introduced this tradition to the Israelites. The sweet custom remains central to Rosh Hashanah festivities to this day.

Honeycake for happiness
Beginning the year on a sweet note seems to be taken literally by custom. Honey is used liberally, not only in desserts like honey cake, but even as a dip to begin the meal. Around the world, Jews start off their holiday meal by dipping apple wedges in honey. Some Jews dip slices of challah, as well.

Honey was of great importance during the biblical era. There was no sugar then. The Torah frequently describes Israel as "the land of milk and honey," because honey represented the good life. For many people, it still does.

Honey cake is one of the most convenient desserts to bake at home because it keeps so well — at least a week and sometimes longer. Unlike most cakes, it tastes even better two days after it is baked. The honey enables it to retain its good flavor and texture.


Ashkenazic Jews began the tradition of serving honey cake for Rosh Hashanah, but Jews of most origins have adopted it. Spices, especially cinnamon and cloves, are favorite accents. In Israel, coffee, cocoa, and citrus zest are popular, too. This cake doesn't have much oil or many eggs and is fairly low in saturated fat.

Orange Hazelnut Honey Cake

Special tools: Mixer, 8 x 4-inch loaf pan

Preparation time: 30 minutes

Cooking time: 55 minutes

Yield: 8 to 10 servings

Keeping kosher: Pareve

1 teaspoon instant coffee granules
1/3 cup hot water
1-1/2 cups flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
Small pinch of ground cloves
2 eggs
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup honey
1/3 cup vegetable oil
1-1/2 teaspoons grated orange zest, orange part only
1/2 cup hazelnuts, coarsely chopped

1. Preheat oven to 325 degrees Fahrenheit. Lightly grease an 8 x 4-inch loaf pan, line it with parchment paper or waxed paper, and grease paper.

2. In a cup, dissolve instant coffee in hot water. Let cool. Sift flour with baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, and cloves.

3. Beat eggs lightly in large bowl of mixer. Add sugar and honey and beat until mixture is very smooth and lightened in color. Gradually add oil and beat until blended. Add orange zest.

4. Stir in flour mixture alternately with coffee, each in two batches. Stir in hazelnuts.

5. Pour batter into prepared pan. Bake for 55 minutes, or until a cake tester inserted in cake comes out clean. Cool in pan for about 15 minutes. Turn out onto rack and carefully peel off paper.

6. When cake is completely cool, wrap it tightly in foil and keep it at room temperature. Serve in thin slices.

Carrots connote wealth
Carrots are popular items on the Rosh Hashanah menu because they stand for prosperity. Sliced carrots resemble gold coins. They might be used to garnish a fish, added to a meat entree, or served as a side dish.

Other vegetable favorites are sweet potatoes and winter squash because of their sweet taste. To accentuate this quality, Ashkenazic cooks like to glaze them with honey. Certain Sephardic Jews stew them with cinnamon and sugar.

Fruit foreshadows a sweet future
In addition to the traditional appetizer of apples dipped in honey, fruit might appear anywhere in the meal. Moroccan Jews enjoy an additional appetizer of syrupy quince, an apple-like fruit that is always served cooked. Tzimmes, a renowned stew from Jews of Central European origin, may include prunes, carrots, sweet potatoes, and beef.

Tzimmes can sometimes be quite elaborate. Therefore, the Yiddish word tzimmes also gave rise to the American-Jewish slang expression, "Don't make a tzimmes out of it," meaning, "Don't make a big fuss or hullabaloo."

Tzimmes should be moist but not soupy. If you would like a thicker sauce, choose one of the following traditional techniques:


Baking: Bake the finished tzimmes uncovered in a casserole dish in a 350 oven for 15 to 30 minutes.
Thickening with a flour slurry: Heat the stew until the sauce begins to bubble. Remove it from the heat. Stir 1 tablespoon flour with 2 tablespoons apricot soaking liquid in a medium bowl. Gradually stir in about 1 cup of the sauce. Return the flour mixture to the pan and simmer it, stirring very gently, for 5 minutes.

5/16/2008

Enjoying Coffee, Italian Style

Italian coffee bars rarely have a menu or printed sign listing all their coffee drinks. So it helps to know what you like. Here are descriptions of the major Italian coffee drinks. And, yes, you'll discover the difference between a latte and a cappuccino.

Espresso: A single shot of espresso, measuring 1-1/2 ounces. Served in a warmed demitasse — a small cup that holds about 3 ounces. To take the chill off ceramic demitasse cups, fill them with hot tap water while waiting for the espresso machine to heat up. Fancy machines have a built-in warming plate for cups.
Espresso Doppio: A "double" shot of espresso, measuring about 3 ounces. Served in a large demitasse cup or a very small coffee cup.
Espresso Ristretto: A "short" or "restricted" espresso of about 1 ounce. Made by cutting short the water flow when brewing. Very syrupy and intense.
Espresso Lungo: The opposite of a ristretto, made by adding an ounce or two of hot water to a single espresso to make a milder or "long" cup. When diluted with 3 or 4 ounces of hot water, this drink is sometimes called an Americano, because it has a similar intensity as American-style brewed coffee.
Espresso Macchiato: A single espresso "marked" by a tablespoon of frothed milk. Perfect when you don't want all the milk used in a cappuccino or latte but aren't ready for plain espresso.
Espresso con Panna: A single shot of espresso with a small dollop of whipped cream. Very decadent and very delicious. Especially popular in the afternoon in Italy.
Espresso Romano: Espresso served with lemon peel. Italians turn up their noses at this American invention for good reason — the acidity in the lemon peel detracts from the flavor of the espresso. Real Italian restaurants serve espresso as is, with the sugar bowl on the side and nothing else.
Espresso Corretto: A single espresso that has been "corrected" with a splash of brandy, grappa, or other spirit. Some Italians have this for breakfast. Not recommended if you want to keep your job elsewhere in the world.
Cappuccino: A single espresso topped with equal amounts of steamed milk and frothed milk. Steamed milk has been heated; frothed milk is both heated and aerated and has a stiff, foamy consistency. Often dusted with cocoa powder or ground cinnamon. Nutmeg, a common duster in America, is rarely used in Italy.
Caffe Latte: This translates as "coffee with milk" and is similar to the French cafe au lait or the Spanish cafe con leche. In Italy, the latte is a morning drink consumed at home rather than in coffee bars. It's usually made with brewed coffee (rather than espresso) and steamed milk. It doesn't contain any foam. Americans have adopted this drink as their own, partly because it's easier to charge $3 for a coffee drink in a large cup. Most American coffee bars use espresso and add much more milk than they do in Italy. Some American coffee bars also add frothed milk. A thin crown of frothed milk makes this drink similar to a cappuccino. When a lot of foamy milk is added, this drink is indistinguishable from a cappuccino.
Caffe Mocha: Italian companies make dozens of syrups that are traditionally used to make sodas. A shot of syrup is poured into a tall glass that is then filled with soda water or fruit juice. American coffee bars have adopted these flavorings, adding them to espresso, something most Italians would consider disgusting. A caffe mocha is made by adding about half an ounce of chocolate syrup to a single espresso. The flavored espresso is then topped with several ounces of steamed milk. The appeal of adding chocolate syrup to coffee is understandable. Adding vanilla, almond, or hazelnut syrup makes some sense, but raspberry or orange flavor would conflict with the coffee flavor.

Baked Apples with Butterscotch Topping

Baked apples are a great treat to make in the fall when apples are in season, the evenings are getting cooler, and you want a hot, satisfying dessert. Look around your market for local apple varieties to try with this recipe.

Baked Apples with Butterscotch Topping

Preparation time: 20 minutes

Baking time: 45 to 60 minutes

Yield: 4 servings

4 baking apples (McIntosh, Rome Beauty, Golden Delicious, or Granny Smith)

Half of a lemon

1/2 cup raisins

2 tablespoons honey

3/4 cup chopped walnuts or pecans

1/2 cup butterscotch topping

1.Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.

2.Core the apples (don't cut them in half) using an apple corer. Remove the peel from the upper 1/3 of the apple. To prevent browning, rub the peeled part of the apple with the lemon and squeeze a few drops of lemon juice inside each cut apple. Place the apples in a 9-inch square baking dish. In a small bowl, combine the raisins, honey, and 2 tablespoons of the chopped nuts. Stuff each apple with the raisin mixture. Pour a little bit of water in the bottom of the pan, about 1/4-inch deep.

3.Bake, uncovered, until the apples are tender (not mushy), from 45 to 60 minutes, depending on the size of the apples. Let the apples cool for about 10 minutes before serving. Place each apple on a serving plate. Drizzle each apple with some of the sauce in the pan, the butterscotch topping, and the remaining nuts.

Per serving: Calories 426 (From Fat 138); Fat 15g (Saturated 2g); Cholesterol 0mg; Sodium 150mg; Carbohydrate 76g (Dietary Fiber 7g); Protein 5g.

Garden Greatness: Fresh Tomato Basil Soup

Tomato and basil are perfect partners in everything, from pasta sauces to this superb soup. This soup is best in the summer when tomatoes are at their peak. During winter months, use plum tomatoes or costly ripe, imported tomatoes.

Fresh Tomato Basil Soup

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

Level: Easy

Tools: Food processor, blender, or hand blender

Preparation time: 15 minutes

Cooking time: 40 minutes

Freezes well

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 medium onion, chopped

1 plump clove garlic, minced

3-1/2 pounds ripe, fresh tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and coarsely chopped with juices

1/2 bay leaf

1 cup vegetable or chicken broth

Salt to taste, about 1/2 to 1 teaspoon

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons minced fresh basil or prepared pesto

1. In a large pot over medium heat, heat the olive oil. Add the onion and sauté, stirring occasionally, until the onion is tender and golden, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for 1 minute.

2. Add the tomatoes and bay leaf, cover, and simmer until the tomatoes are very soft, about 30 minutes.

3. Remove the bay leaf. Puree in batches in a food processor until smooth. Alternatively, if you have a hand blender, leave the soup in the pot and blend.

4. Return the soup to the pot. Add the broth, and reheat until hot. Season with salt and pepper. Stir in the basil or pesto before serving.

Stir Up a Pot of Curried Zucchini Soup

Most cooks might transform excess zucchini into muffins or tea breads. Try something new with this recipe for Curried Zucchini Soup. This remarkably easy recipe turns the summer squash into a delightfully spiced concoction that is tasty served hot or cold.

Curried Zucchini Soup

Yield: 6 servings

Level: Easy

Tools: Food processor, blender, or hand blender

Preparation time: 10 minutes

Cooking time: 35 to 45 minutes

Freezes well

2 tablespoons butter or olive oil

1 small onion, chopped

1 plump clove garlic, minced

2 teaspoons good quality curry powder (preferably Madras)

2 pounds, about 5 to 6, small zucchini, sliced

4 cups vegetable or chicken broth

2 pounds, about 5 to 6, small zucchini, sliced

Salt or to taste (start with about 3/4 teaspoon)

1/2 cup cream or half-and-half (optional)

Fresh chopped mint leaves or chopped chives for garnish

1. In a large pot over medium-low heat, melt the butter or add the olive oil. Add the onion and sauté, stirring occasionally, until translucent, about 5 to 7 minutes. Add the garlic and curry powder and sauté, stirring occasionally, for 2 minutes.

2. Add the broth and zucchini. Cover partially and simmer until the zucchini is very tender, about 20 to 25 minutes.

3. Puree the mixture in batches in a food processor or blender. Alternatively, if you have a hand blender , leave the soup in the pot and blend.

4. Taste, season with salt, and stir in the cream (if desired). Return the mixture to the pot and heat thoroughly over medium heat for about 5 to 10 minutes. Serve garnished with mint or chives.

This soup also tastes great cold. After you add the cream in Step 4, just cool the soup, chill in the refrigerator for 1-1/2 to 2 hours, then garnish and serve.

Ratatouille in a Pressure Cooker

Ratatouille is a hearty vegetable stew from the Provence region of France, and you'll find many variations. This recipe uses a pressure cooker to cook up the brightly colored and flavorful vegetables that make Provence famous. Serve it as a main course with salad, cheese, and crusty bread, or serve it as a side dish with grilled meats or fish.

Ratatouille

Preparation time: 20 minutes

Cooking time: 4 minutes under pressure

Pressure level: High

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 medium onion, chopped

2 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced

1 green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and diced

1 red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and diced

1 small zucchini, trimmed, quartered lengthwise, and diced

1 can (14-1/2 ounces) diced tomatoes

1/4 cup water

1/2 teaspoon dried thyme

1-1/2 teaspoons salt

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

1 large eggplant, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes

2 tablespoons shredded basil

2 tablespoons minced flat-leaf Italian parsley

Salt and pepper to taste

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1. Heat the olive oil in a pressure cooker over medium-high heat. Add the onion, garlic, and the green and red bell peppers. Cook until the onion is soft.

2. Add the zucchini, tomatoes, water, thyme, 1-1/2 teaspoons salt, and 1/4 teaspoon black pepper. Cook for 2 minutes. Add the eggplant.

3. Cover the pressure cooker and bring to high pressure over high heat. Lower the heat to stabilize the pressure. Cook for 4 minutes.

4. Remove from the heat. Release the pressure with a quick-release method.

5. Unlock and remove the cover. Add the basil and parsley. Season with salt and black pepper. Stir in the vinegar. Serve hot or at room temperature.

Discovering Egg Substitutes for Vegetarian Cooking

Recipes that call for eggs often can work just as well with substitute ingredients. You probably have many egg replacement possibilities in your refrigerator or kitchen cabinet.

Eggs serve a variety of functions in recipes. They often work as binders, holding the other ingredients together, as in a casserole or cake. Eggs also can act as leavening agents, providing lift and affecting texture. The purpose of the egg in a recipe determines what you can use as a substitute. In some cases, you can omit the egg altogether, and the recipe isn't noticeably affected.

Ousting eggs from baked goods
Eggs are used in baked goods for leavening, or lightness. They also may serve as a binder. The purpose the egg serves in the original recipe — as well as the amount of egg the recipe calls for — determines whether you need a substitute and, if so, which alternate ingredient will best serve the function of the egg in the recipe.

Flat foods such as pancakes and cookies don't rely on eggs for lift. In fact, in many cases, you can eliminate the egg without noticeably affecting the final product. That's especially true if the recipe calls for only one egg. If you do omit the egg, however, it's a good idea to add a tablespoon or two of additional liquid — soymilk, fruit juice, or water, for example — for each egg omitted to restore the recipe to its original moisture content.

When a recipe calls for three or more eggs — as many cakes do — the eggs perform a vital function and need to be replaced with an ingredient that can deliver a similar effect.


In recipes for baked goods that have a light, airy texture, replace eggs with an ingredient that provides lift. Any of the following ingredients can replace one whole egg in a recipe:

Half a small, ripe, mashed banana. This substitution gives the food a mild banana flavor, which can be nice in recipes for muffins, cookies, pancakes, and quick breads.
1/4 cup of any kind of tofu blended with the liquid ingredients in the recipe. Light or reduced-fat tofu cuts down on the fat and calories in the finished product.
1-1/2 teaspoons of a commercial vegetarian egg substitute, such as Ener-G Egg Replacer, mixed with 2 tablespoons of water. This product is a combination of vegetable starches and works wonderfully in virtually any recipe that calls for eggs. Natural foods stores sell it in 1-pound boxes.
1/4 cup of applesauce, canned pumpkin or squash, or pureed prunes. If you use these foods, know that, depending on the recipe, they may add a hint of flavor. If you want to give the food a lighter texture, add an extra 1/2 teaspoon of baking powder, because using fruit purees to replace eggs can make the finished product somewhat denser than the original recipe.
A heaping tablespoon of soy flour or bean flour mixed with a tablespoon of water. This mixture works similarly to vegetarian egg replacer.
2 tablespoons of cornstarch beaten with 2 tablespoons of water. This, too, works much like vegetarian egg replacer.
1 tablespoon of finely ground flaxseeds whipped with 1/4 cup of water. The flaxseeds gel and bind with the other ingredients.
Replacing eggs in casseroles, loaves, burger patties, and main dishes
Some recipes need an ingredient that binds all the other ingredients together. Eggs are famous for acting as the glue that holds meatballs, meatloaf, and casseroles together. Lacto vegetarian and vegan versions of these traditional foods need something to serve the same purpose. Fortunately, you have many options.

As you might suspect, your choice of ingredients to replace eggs in these types of foods depends on the degree of "stick" you need, as well as how the ingredient will blend with the other flavors in the recipe. Cooked oatmeal may work fine as a binder in a veggie burger patty, for example, but may not be a welcome addition to a vegetable casserole if you don't care for the flavor or texture that it brings to the dish.

If you're altering a traditional recipe, you have to experiment a bit to determine just the right amount of an ingredient to serve the purpose. A good starting point with most recipes in which egg acts as a binder is to use 2 to 3 tablespoons of any of the following ingredients (or a combination of them) to replace one whole egg. If the original recipe calls for two eggs, start with 4 to 6 tablespoons of egg substitute.


Tomato paste
Arrowroot starch
Potato starch
Cornstarch
Whole-wheat, unbleached, oat, or bean flour
Finely crushed breadcrumbs, cracker meal, or matzo meal
Quick-cooking rolled oats or cooked oatmeal
Mashed potatoes, mashed sweet potatoes, or instant potato flakes
You can also try 1/4 cup of any kind of tofu blended with 1 tablespoon of flour or 1-1/2 teaspoons vegetarian egg replacer mixed with 2 tablespoons of water.

Replacing eggs in sandwich fillings, salads, and scrambled eggs
Finding substitutes for eggs that are hidden in recipes is one thing; finding suitable substitutes for eggs that are more visible in foods is quite another. Fortunately, tofu looks remarkably like cooked egg whites and functions in much the same way in several popular recipes.

You can use chopped firm or extra-firm tofu in place of egg whites in egg salad. Use your favorite egg salad recipe, but substitute tofu for the hard-boiled eggs. You can even replace regular mayonnaise with soy mayonnaise for a vegan version.
Cubes of chopped firm tofu are a nice addition to a mixed green salad or spinach salad, standing in for the customary chopped hard-boiled eggs. You can also add chopped or minced tofu to a bowl of Chinese hot and sour soup.
Try scrambled tofu instead of scrambled eggs at breakfast. Natural foods stores stock "tofu scrambler" seasoning packets, which you may also find in the produce section of your regular supermarket, near the tofu. Many vegetarian cookbooks give recipes for scrambled tofu. The recipes usually include turmeric to give the tofu a yellow color similar to that of scrambled eggs. You can also use scrambled tofu to fill pita pockets or as a sandwich filling on hoagie rolls.

Using Soy Foods in Vegetarian Cooking

Some of the best vegetarian specialty foods are made from soybeans, a type of legume. Soybeans can be used whole (as in tempeh) or soaked (as in soymilk and tofu) or can be processed and used to make a variety of specialty foods, such as veggie burgers, soy hotdogs, and soy cold cuts. (For a delicious introduction to soymilk, try the Winter Berry Smoothie recipe at the end of this article!)

Soy foods are associated with many health benefits. By adding soy foods to your diet, you may reduce your risk of breast, colon, and prostate cancer, and you may lower your blood cholesterol level. Soy foods can lessen your risk for coronary artery disease and osteoporosis and can help you control your blood sugar if you're diabetic.


Whole soybeans are rich in protein, calcium, iron, zinc, B vitamins, and dietary fiber, but products made from soybeans vary in their nutrient content, depending on how much of the original soybean has been processed out. With the exception of such foods as soy sauce and tamari (which really are just salty condiments), foods made from soybeans are nutrient dense and contribute to the healthfulness of your meals.

When you use soy foods in place of high-fat meats and dairy products, you substantially lower your intake of artery-clogging saturated fat and cholesterol. Doing so not only helps you minimize your intake of what you don't need, but also helps you work in more of what you do need — the vitamins, minerals, and phytochemicals found in foods of plant origin.

Foods made from soybeans have been a staple in Asia for centuries, not only because they're healthful but also because they're delicious and versatile. Whether you use them a little or a lot in your own cooking, most vegetarians find that soy foods are practical and convenient ingredients to have on hand.

The various shapes and forms of soy
Soy foods come in dozens of forms. Some of them are used as ingredients in commercially produced food products, and others are sold as ready-to-eat products. Soy foods can take the place of meat, cheese, eggs, milk, and other animal products in recipes. Nutritionally, soy products are far superior to their meat counterparts because they're cholesterol-free, low in saturated fat, and usually lower in sodium. They're also free of nitrates and nitrites, preservatives that are commonly found in processed meat products and that may cause cancer.

Table 1 gives you an idea of types of soy products that are available and the many ways in which they can be used.

Table 1: Soy Foods and Their Uses

Soy Product
Description and Uses

Meat substitutes
Meat alternatives made from soy protein, tofu, and other ingredients. They resemble meat products such as cold cuts, hotdogs, sausage, and bacon in appearance, texture, flavor, and aroma and can be used in the same ways that their meat counterparts are used.

Miso
A rich, salty East Asian condiment used to flavor soups, sauces, entrees, salad dressings, marinades, and other foods. This savory paste is made from soybeans, a grain (usually rice), and salt. It's combined with a mold culture and aged for at least one year. It doesn't have much nutritional value and is high in sodium, so, like most condiments, it should be used sparingly.

Soy cheese
A substitute for dairy cheese that comes in many different forms, such as mozzarella style, jack style, American style, and cream cheese style. It can be used to make sandwiches, pizza, casseroles, and spreads.

Soy mayonnaise
Several brands of soy-based mayonnaise are available at natural foods stores. They can be used in all the ways that regular mayonnaise is used.

Soy milk
A beverage made from soaked, ground, and strained soybeans. It can be used in all the ways that cow's milk is used, in recipes or as a beverage.

Soy sauce
A rich, salty, dark brown liquid condiment made from fermented soybeans.

Soy yogurt
Made from soymilk; can be used as a substitute for dairy yogurt. It often contains active cultures and is available in a variety of flavors.

Tamari
A type of soy sauce; a byproduct of the production of miso.

Tempeh
A traditional Indonesian soy food. It's made from whole soybeans that have been mixed with a grain and a mold culture, fermented, and pressed into a block or cake. It can be grilled and served as an entree and used as an ingredient in sandwich and burrito fillings, casseroles, chili, and other foods.

Textured soy protein (TSP) or textured vegetable protein (TVP)
A product made from textured soy flour. It's usually sold in chunks or granules, takes on a chewy, meatlike texture when rehydrated, and is used in such foods as vegetarian chili, vegetarian sloppy Joes, veggie burgers, and other meat substitutes.

Tofu
Soybean curd. Tofu is made in a process similar to cheese-making, using soymilk and a coagulant. It's bland tasting and is available in a variety of textures and densities. It can be used in numerous ways: cubed in stir-fry, marinated and baked, as a substitute for eggs and cheese, as a sandwich filling, and as an ingredient in dips, sauces, desserts, cream soups, and many other foods.

Like cheese, eggs, meat, and other high-protein foods, tofu and tempeh can spoil if left unrefrigerated. Don't leave foods made with tofu and tempeh out at room temperature for more than two hours. When you're finished with a meal, cover the leftovers and put them back in the refrigerator as soon as possible.


Try this smoothie recipe for a satisfying pick-me-up:

Winter Berry Smoothie

Rich purple jewel tones dotted with tiny black flecks create a stunning, light refreshment. Serve this smoothie in a clear glass because the color is so spectacular. This one's a crowd-pleaser, so if you have company, plan to multiply the recipe. Fortunately, this recipe is so easy that it takes only minutes to make.

Preparation time: 5 minutes

Yield: One large serving (2 cups) or two smaller servings

1 cup vanilla soymilk
1/2 ripe banana
1 cup frozen mixed berries (strawberries, blackberries, blueberries, and raspberries)
2 tablespoons pure maple syrup

1. Place all the ingredients in a blender.

2. Blend on high speed for about 1 minute or until smooth, stopping every 15 seconds to scrape the sides of the blender with a spatula and to push the solid ingredients down to the bottom of the blender.

3. Pour into a tall (16-ounce) tumbler or two smaller (8-ounce) glasses and serve immediately with an iced-tea spoon and a straw.

Autumn Harvest Applesauce

With a bright pink blush from tart cranberries, this applesauce surely outshines anything from a jar. It's sweetened with fresh apple cider and real maple syrup. Use the crispest of apples for the best flavor and texture. Your pressure cooker lets you make this fall favorite in minutes.

Preparation time: 10 minutes

Cooking time: 5 minutes under pressure

Pressure setting: High

Autumn Harvest Applesauce

3 pounds apples, such as Jonathan, Golden Delicious, or Jonagold, peeled, cored, and quartered

1 1/2 cups fresh or frozen cranberries

1 cinnamon stick

1 cup apple cider or apple juice

1/2 cup pure maple syrup

Pinch of salt

1.Place the apples, cranberries, cinnamon stick, cider, maple syrup, and salt in a pressure cooker. Stir well.

2.Cover and bring to high pressure. Lower the heat to stabilize the pressure and cook for 5 minutes.

3.Remove from the heat. Release the pressure by using a quick-release method.

4.Unlock and remove the cover. The apples should be very soft. Remove and discard the cinnamon stick.

5.Puree the apples with a handheld potato masher or process with a hand blender in the pressure cooker pot. Taste and add additional maple syrup or sugar, if desired. Refrigerate when cool.

Tip: Fresh cranberries are available from September through early winter. Because they freeze well for up to a year, buy a few extra bags and store them in your freezer to have a ready supply year-round

5/13/2008

Asparagus and Carrots with Lemon Dressing

Asparagus, a popular vegetable for Passover, makes a tasty and pretty vegetable side dish. It's especially appealing when paired with carrots and a light dressing of fresh lemon juice, fine olive oil, and fragrant herbs.

Asparagus and Carrots with Lemon Dressing

Preparation time: 20 minutes

Cooking time: 15 minutes

Yield: 4 servings

Keeping kosher: Pareve

3/4 to 1 pound medium-width asparagus, with woody ends trimmed off

1 pound baby carrots

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons strained fresh lemon juice (juice from 1 lemon)

1/2 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Cayenne pepper to taste

1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme, or 1/2 teaspoon dried

2 teaspoons snipped fresh chives

Peel bottom 2/3 of each asparagus spear. Cut spears in 2-inch pieces and set aside.

Place carrots in a medium saucepan with water to cover and a pinch of salt. Bring to a boil and simmer over medium heat for 10 minutes or until just tender. Using a slotted spoon, place carrots in a strainer, leaving liquid in saucepan.

In a small bowl, whisk olive oil with lemon juice and zest. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and cayenne.

Bring carrot cooking liquid to a boil. Add asparagus and boil uncovered for 3 minutes or until just tender. Place carrots in a strainer. If not serving hot, rinse asparagus with cold water; drain well.

Combine asparagus and carrots in a shallow serving bowl. Add dressing, thyme, and chives and toss lightly. Taste and adjust seasoning. Serve hot, warm, or cool.

Per serving: Calories 153.2; Protein 2.6 g; Carbohydrates 14.2 g; Dietary fiber 3.7 g; Total fat 10.3 g; Saturated fat 1.4 g; Cholesterol 0.0 mg; Sodium 208.3 mg.

Jewish Mother's Advice: If you're preparing the vegetables ahead to serve as a cool salad, the color of the asparagus will be brightest if you add the lemon dressing at the last minute.

5/10/2008

Looking at the Chinese Approach to Cooking


You don't have to be well versed in Confucianism or Taoist principles to think like a Chinese cook, and you don't have to master fancy cooking techniques or buy a ton of kitchen equipment either. You really need only a few simple tools and the willingness to follow a few basic guidelines — not rules — that all Chinese cooks first learned as children in their own parents' kitchens.

Keep it in balance
The Chinese pay a great deal of attention to contrast and harmony in their everyday existence. Balancing yin and yang is a way to achieve harmony in your life, as well as your culinary creations. These two elements complement and contrast each other, and a thorough understanding of them goes a long way toward understanding the Chinese philosophy in the kitchen. Here's what these two terms mean:

Yin represents feminine, soft, cold, and wet forces.
Yang is masculine, bright, hot, dry, and vigorous.
So how does this harmony translate to food? Chinese classify bland, low-calorie foods as yin, whereas richer and fattier items fall within the yang category. By harmonizing the yin and yang ingredients in a dish, the cook creates a good meal that maintains a healthy balance. If this concept sounds a bit too abstract, consider the popular dish sweet-and-sour pork — a clear example of the yin-yang balance of taste (sweet is yin, and sour is yang).

Balancing isn't restricted to taste alone. You can create texture contrast by combining soft, steamed items with crispy, fried ones. Or how about contrasting the color scheme with the spiciness in a single dish? Cooking techniques as opposite as deep-frying and steaming can join forces to create meals that are not only tasty but also philosophically stimulating.


Cook seasonally, buy locally
For much of China's history, its people have had to adapt their daily menus to those ingredients available in their own gardens and at local markets on that particular day. Chinese home cooks somehow managed to turn this liability into an asset, taking limited, simple ingredients and turning them into masterpieces. The popularity of wheat-flour dumplings and noodles and of root-based dishes in northern China; the deft preparation of fresh seafood in the regions running along the country's coast; and the prevalence of fresh produce and rice dishes in the semitropical south all attest to the use of local, seasonally accessible foods.

Perhaps the best place to start is at your local farmers market. Always ask what's in season. Fruits and vegetables that are in season are abundant and at their peak of flavor, color, and texture, while those out of season are few, and their quality can be questionable. Go with the numbers, and you have a better chance at getting high-quality ingredients.


Don't see what you want in your local market? Check out the seed store, and you may turn your backyard into a healthy Asian vegetable garden. You can rather effortlessly grow many vegetables that are common in Chinese dishes in small backyard plots or gardens.

Granted, raising poultry and hogs in midtown Manhattan or catching live river shrimp in Nebraska may not be practical. Nevertheless, you should still think "fresh, fresh, fresh" when seeking these and other ingredients at your local market or your favorite butcher's counter.

Many substitutes are available for the traditional ingredients and cooking tools used in Chinese cuisine. But there is no substitute for freshness. None.


If all else fails, improvise!
Chinese chefs are experts in developing endless alternatives in ingredients and cooking methods in the face of scarcity and hardship. If you want to cook like the Chinese, you, too, should adopt a flexible approach when it comes to the availability of ingredients.

Many ingredients in traditional Chinese dishes sound foreign to novice cooks — and for good reason! Even with the ever-expanding stock of most supermarket chains, finding yard-long beans in suburban Detroit may still be a bit challenging. However, regular green beans can make a nice substitute. So be flexible: Buy fresh, crisp regular green beans and enjoy.

The next time you hit an ingredient-availability wall, don't give up on the whole recipe. Use your imagination to scope out attainable items that can take the place of ones not quite at peak freshness or still on the dock in Shanghai. No one but you will know the difference.

In all Chinese markets, you find an array of dried, pickled, salted, bottled, canned, or otherwise-preserved counterparts for seasonal or less-readily available ingredients. Take advantage of the assortment and stock up on dried noodles, grains, and dried black mushrooms, for starters.

If you don't have the time or inclination to make your own sweet-and-sour stir-fry sauce, the Asian foods section of your local store can pick up the slack with countless bottled versions. Remember that canned, sliced water chestnuts, bamboo shoots, and straw mushrooms — all easy to find — take the core out of your prep work. By throwing in a little patience and imagination, anyone can cook Chinese like the Chinese.

Steamed Whole Fish, Chinese-Style


Chinese restaurant aficianados often judge the quality of a restaurant by its steamed whole fish. Such a simple cooking method makes it practically impossible to hide a second-rate fish (and chef!) underneath heavy seasonings or a thick sauce. Test your own steaming prowess with this simply sublime Cantonese classic.

To make it really Cantonese, use carp instead of sea bass. Although carp isn't a very popular fish in the West, it's a Chinese favorite, and if you live near a Chinese market, you can probably find it still alive and swimming in the store's fish tanks.


Preparation time: 15 minutes

Cooking time: 12 to 14 minutes

Yield: 4 servings

1 sea bass, cleaned with head left on
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup finely shredded ginger
2 green onions, cut into 1-1/2-inch pieces and thinly julienned
1/4 cup cooking oil
1/4 cup soy sauce

1. Pat the fish dry and score it on both sides. Lay it on a heatproof serving dish with slightly raised sides. (If your wok or steamer is rather small, the fish can be halved.) Sprinkle with the salt; spread the ginger on the fish and some in the cavities.

2. Prepare a wok for steaming. Cover and steam the fish over high heat, until the fish is cooked and the flesh flakes off, about 13 minutes. Remove from the heat and sprinkle with the green onions.

3. Heat the cooking oil in a small saucepan over high heat until it begins to smoke. Pour the hot oil over the fish and the green onions. Pour the soy sauce over the fish.

Variation: Setting the fish on two whole green onion stalks as it steams not only adds to the meal's flavor but also gives the steaming process a helpful nudge by letting the steam circulate more fully around the fish. Try it yourself. Also, those score marks you've made are the perfect "pockets" for holding any additional seasonings — slices of ginger, green onion, or even slices of black mushrooms — that you may want to use to give an extra jolt of flavor.

Handling Raw Chicken with Care

Although American poultry production is carefully monitored and the facilities comply with all government sanitary and safety guidelines, salmonella and other bacteria that can cause sickness in human beings may still be found in chicken. Fortunately, these bacteria are killed off if the chicken is cooked until the internal temperature reaches 160 degrees for boneless, skinless breasts; 170 degrees for bone-in breasts and leg quarters; and 180 degrees for whole birds.

Here are a few guidelines for safe handling and preparation of chicken in your kitchen:


Always keep poultry refrigerated, even when in a marinade, until it's ready for cooking.


Always thaw frozen poultry in the refrigerator, never at room temperature. You can usually thaw a chicken this way overnight.


If any part of the bird has an odd or "off" odor, discard the entire chicken.


Before cooking the chicken, wash it, inside and out, with cold water and then pat it dry with paper towels. Discard the paper towels.


Thoroughly wash your hands, the utensils, and the work surface when you're done.

Grilling chicken breasts
Chicken breasts offer plenty of interesting grilling options. They can be grilled with or without their skin and bones; seasoned with any number of alluring rubs, sauces, and marinades; and sliced into thin strips or thick cubes for sizzling kebabs.

Breast meat is juicier and more flavorful if the breast is grilled with the skin intact. However, the skin contains a lot of fat that can cause dangerous flare-ups. You may want to opt for skinless breasts or pull the skin off before grilling. Skinless breast recipes grill in about 10 minutes (a great advantage of cooking without the skin and bone — it's so fast).

You can grill chicken breasts with the skin intact to add flavor and moisture to the meat, and then reduce calories by removing the skin before serving.

5/09/2008

Make It Mexican: Tequila, Sangria, and Beer


The only thing that sounds like more fun than eating Mexican food is drinking Mexican drinks. Mexican beers, margaritas, and tequilas are so popular that they are the gateway for many people to tasting Mexican food for the first time. After you've munched on chips and salsa at a couple of parties, why not take the leap to tamales and empanadas, or to cactus salad, the next time you're looking for an accompaniment to that ice chest of Mexican beers?

Tequila 101
Tequila is the distilled spirit of the heart of the agave (ah-GAH-vay) plant — a spiky succulent of the lily family, not a cactus. To make tequila, the heart, or pina, of the agave is steamed in huge ovens, and the resulting sweet juice is fermented and distilled.

Making the grade
The Mexican government regulates tequila production so that all tequila meets the following conditions:

It must come from one of five north central Mexican states: Jalisco, Guanjuato, Michoacan, Nayarit, or Tamaulipas.
It must be at least 60 percent derived from the Blue agave or Tequilana Weber plant.
It must be distilled twice.
There are five distinct types of tequila:

Plata, Blanco, and Silver are the youngest tequilas. They are clear like vodka, not aged, and they are frequently used for mixed drinks.
Mixtos are the cheapest tequilas, made from 60 percent agave.
Joven Abogado, or Gold, are unaged tequilas that are colored and slightly softened or sweetened with caramel or food coloring. Use this variety when you don't want to spend the bucks for añejo.
Reposado is aged, but not as long as añejo. It is stored for two months to a year in small wood barrels, where it acquires a light gold color. Reposados combine the spiciness of clear tequila with the smoothness of añejo.
Añejo, the most costly tequila, must be aged in wood, preferably small oak barrels, at least a year but sometimes as long as 3 years. This is great for sipping slowly, in the same way that people traditionally enjoy brandy. Although the complexity of a brandy can be overwhelming sometimes, tequilas are relatively simple and straightforward. They have a distinctive alcoholic flavor — with a slight sour edge.
Top-shelf selections
If you want to cultivate a taste for fine tequilas, check out this list of contenders for the tequila hall of fame:

Patrón Añejo, with a smooth rich flavor, is Susan's favorite.
El Tesoro Añejo, with its strong flavor of alcohol, is Mary Sue's favorite.
Chinaco Añejo is named after the "Fighting Chinacos." With a name like that, how could we resist?
Porfidio Silver, an elegant, crystal-clear plata, is distilled three times making it smooth as silk going down.
Del Dueño is a slightly sweet añejo.
What is this thing called mezcal?
As you find out more about tequila, you may start wondering about mezcal — that mysterious beverage with the worm on the bottom of the bottle.

Mezcal, the form of tequila from southern Mexico, hasn't changed much since the Spanish introduced the still to Mexico in 1520. Unlike tequila, which must be made from a specific plant and is produced by large industrial companies, mezcal can be made from several types of agave and is still being made in small batches by tiny distillers. The resulting drink is more rough-hewn and less uniform than tequila. One premium brand is Encantado.

The worm, or gusano, found on the bottle's bottom, is not a worm at all, but a caterpillar. Once, locals may have believed that the gusano was imbued with magical powers. But today, it is merely thought to sell more bottles of mezcal.


Favorite Mexican beers
The Mexican approach to beer is closer to the American view of soft drinks: bubbly, refreshing beverages meant to be drunk throughout the day to quench a thirst rather than loosen inhibitions. In fact, beers are sold in 6-ounce bottles for quick snacks, and sometimes they're mixed with half lemonade or limeade for a bubbly morning drink. Beer is always served with a wedge of lime in Mexico, a custom that can be traced back to the Spaniards.

Best beer picks include the following:

Pacifico: A slightly acidic, light-colored beer, made in an ale style. Try mixing it with half lemonade or half tomato juice for a great summer drink.
Bohemia: Slightly darker than the ales, but still light-colored. This well-crafted, flavorful beer has placed first in blind worldwide beer tastings — no mean feat against all those German brews. It has a smooth finish and slight aftertaste, best with just a rub of lime on the rim of the glass.
Dos Equis: With its amber color, it is a nice cross between lighter and darker style beers. The recipe for this 100-year-old beer (named XX for the turn of the century) was created by a German brew master.
Negro Modelo: A dark beer from the Yucatán. It has a hint of molasses, without being too sweet, and a strong flavor. For your complete drinking pleasure, coat the rim of a tumbler with salt, fill with crushed ice, pour in the beer, and squeeze in a few lime wedges. Leave yourself plenty of time to relax and enjoy such a carefully crafted drink.
On the lighter side: Sangria
A light fruit and wine drink, like sangria, is terrific for casual afternoon gatherings. Sangria looks especially nice when served in sangria pitchers.

Sangria

Preparation time: 10 minutes, plus 2 hours steeping

Yield: 4 servings

1 orange
1 lemon
1 lime
1 bottle fruity red wine, such as Pinot Noir
1 cup freshly squeezed orange juice
2 cups ice cubes

1. Scrub the orange, lemon, and lime under running water and cut them into 1/4-inch slices. Cut each slice into quarters to form wedges.

2. Place the fruit wedges in a pitcher, pour in the wine, and let the sangria sit for about 2 hours at room temperature so that the flavors can combine. Alternatively, steep as long as a day in the refrigerator.

3. Just before serving, stir in the orange juice and ice cubes. Serve immediately.

For sangria that stays cold longer, try making one large ice cube. Wash out a half-gallon cardboard milk carton and fill it with water. Add some thin slices of oranges, lemons, and limes for color. Stand the carton upright in the freezer and freeze. Empty the ice into a punch bowl by ripping off the carton just before adding the sangria.

Beyond Mozzarella: Getting to Know Italian Cheeses


Italians are rightly famous for their cheeses. Parmesan cheese is used the world over to flavor pasta dishes, as well as egg, rice, and meat dishes. You have hundreds of Italian cheeses to choose from. Most, however, aren't exported. The following sections describe some of the most popular and useful Italian cheeses. Some are sold in supermarkets. All are readily available at a good cheese shop or gourmet store.

Fontina
Real Fontina cheese from Valle d'Aosta in the far northwest of Italy is rich and creamy with a buttery, nutty flavor. This is a fine eating cheese. (You would never eat some cheeses as is, such as ricotta or mascarpone — they're just for cooking.) Let the fontina come to room temperature, and it becomes soft. Fontina never gets runny like brie, but it shouldn't be firm, either. You can eat Fontina as is, or because it melts so well, you can use it in sandwiches or pizzas.

Avoid Fontina from other sources. Most supermarkets carry a rubbery, bland Fontina cheese from Denmark or Sweden with a texture more like Cheddar and absolutely no flavor.


Gorgonzola
Italy's prized blue cheese can be made in various styles. Sometimes, Gorgonzola is dry and crumbly and has an intense blue cheese flavor similar to Roquefort, a popular blue cheese from France. Although this aged cheese is fine for nibbling, when cooking use the milder, creamier type of Gorgonzola called dolce or dolce latte —"sweet" or "sweet milk." The texture is creamy, and the distinctive blue cheese flavor isn't overpowering.

If you can't find Italian Gorgonzola dolce, you might try Saga Blue, a Danish blue cheese readily available in supermarkets. The flavor isn't as distinctive as Gorgonzola, but Saga Blue is milder and creamier than most supermarket blue cheeses.

Mozzarella
You can find so many styles of this important Italian cheese that figuring out where to start may seem hard. The original mozzarella was made from the milk of water buffalo and was called mozzarella di bufala, which is fairly hard to find in Italy and downright scarce elsewhere. It tastes best when incredibly fresh (no more than a few days old); it doesn't ship all that well.

Most fresh mozzarella (the fresh cheese is packed in water, not shrink-wrapped) is made from cow's milk and called fiore di latte. The flavor is milky and sweet, and the texture is springy, yet yielding. You should eat this cheese as is, in a simple mozzarella, tomato, and basil salad or perhaps marinated in olive oil and served as an antipasto. When cooked, it loses some of its delicacy.

When buying fresh mozzarella, try to get cheese that has been made that day. Mozzarella starts to go downhill after a day or two, and after three or four days, it's usually not worth eating. The cheese should look white and have a fresh, sweet smell. If the cheese smells at all sour or looks dried out, go to another shop. When you get fresh mozzarella home, use it immediately. If you must keep it for a few days, refrigerate the cheese in a container filled with enough very lightly salted water to cover the cheese.

Parmesan
Parmigiano-Reggiano is the king of Italian cheeses. This name is given to the finest aged Parmesan cheese produced in the Parma area in northern Italy. Although you may balk at paying $12 to $15 a pound for Parmigiano-Reggiano, most recipes call for very little, and the cheese delivers a big impact. Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (don't buy pregrated cheese; it dries out and loses much of its flavor) has a rich, buttery, nutty flavor. It's so good that Italians often break off tiny pieces from a hunk of Parmigiano-Reggiano and eat the cheese with drinks as an appetizer.

When shopping for Parmigiano-Reggiano, try to buy small wedges (about half a pound is a good size for grating) that have been freshly cut from a whole wheel of the cheese. A whole wheel weighs at least 65 pounds and has the words Parmigiano-Reggiano stenciled all around the rind. When buying wedges, check the rind to make sure that part of this stenciling appears — this is the only way to know that you're getting the real thing. You can wrap Parmigiano-Reggiano in waxed paper or plastic wrap and keep it in the refrigerator for several weeks, at least.


Pecorino
Pecorino is traditionally made from sheep's milk, although some manufacturers add some cow's milk to reduce the pungency or save money. In Italy, Pecorino is usually sold fresh or lightly aged and is served as an eating cheese. Young Pecorino isn't widely known elsewhere. Most of the exported Pecorino has been aged much longer. Like Parmesan, aged Pecorino is designed for grating, but it has a much saltier and more pungent flavor.

Most exported Pecorino is from the Rome area, hence the name Pecorino Romano. (Pecorino cheeses are also made in Sardinia, Sicily, and Tuscany.) Pecorino Romano is bone-white cheese that has an intense peppery flavor. Like Parmigiano-Reggiano, the words Pecorino Romano appear stenciled on the rind to make shopping for the authentic product easy. Many American-made Pecorino cheeses taste of salt and nothing else; you should avoid these American varieties.

Pecorino is best in dishes with assertive ingredients, such as capers, olives, or hot red pepper flakes. Pecorino also works well with vegetables like eggplant and zucchini. Pecorino is widely used in Sicilian and Sardinian dishes.

Ricotta
Like mozzarella, ricotta should be freshly made and consumed within a few days. It should be creamy and thick, not watery and curdish, like so many supermarket brands sold in plastic containers. In Italy, local cheese makers produce fresh ricotta with a dry, firm consistency (akin to goat cheese). The flavor is sweet and milky. This cheese is so perishable that it's rarely exported.

In the United States, you can get fresh, locally made ricotta in and near urban centers with large Italian-American populations. This cheese shares many qualities with the Italian versions. These U.S. versions are especially good in ricotta cheesecakes and pasta sauces or fillings, in which the cheese is the main ingredient.

You can use supermarket ricotta cheese, but it's bland and the texture mushy and unappealing. You might try draining supermarket ricotta in a fine-mesh strainer for an hour or two to remove some of the water. This can improve the texture, but you can't really do anything to improve its flavor.